Crossing the Gulf Stream from Lake Worth

Overhead cables cross the Intracoastal Waterway near Lake Worth 

We left Vero Beach on Friday to make our way to Ft. Pierce.  Saturday we moved south down the very hectic section of the Intracoastal Waterway to Lake Worth. We anchored out in Lake Worth the evening before leaving the U.S. and crossing the Gulf Stream to the Bahamas.  The ICW is so busy and narrow in this area that I decided no photograph could possibly capture the chaos of wakeboarders criss-crossing, powerboaters breaking water speed records up and down and general mayhem! Weekends on the ICW in south Florida have to be seen to be believed! 

Looking back at Florida...why is a blimp flying off the coast?

Sunday.  The sun is shining and the temperature is somewhere in the 70s. Who cares exactly; once the barometer reaches 70, it’s all good after that. We’re already getting into that laid back, laissez-faire way of life. We’ve left behind the frantic pace of work and mortgage payments. We know we’re headed in the right direction to a more meaningful and less stressful life. It’s a big step. While we have a plan to head northeast, the Gulf Stream will try to carry us north.

In case you have ever wondered, this is what the Gulf Stream looks like.

We’ve heard that a line of clouds hover over the Gulf Stream and that’s exactly what we saw when we headed east out the Lake Worth Inlet in Southern Florida, into the Atlantic this morning.  The Gulf Stream is about 14 miles offshore from Lake Worth. 

The Western edge of the Bahamas is only about 50 miles off the coast of Florida. We initially headed east out of the inlet for a few miles, anticipating the northerly current of the Gulf Stream to carry us, rather than heading north east immediately and being carried too far north.

Are we there yet?

We’re motorsailing due to only a light breeze and making great time at around 7.5 knots per hour. The seas are calm, clear blue indigo ink. Flying fish are keeping us company. They look like elegant little birds flying so fast within a foot of the surface. We’ve been watching another sail boat north or us also headed to the Bahamas.  We are used to seeing cargo vessels and cruise ships in and around Baltimore on the Chesapeake Bay and we know we want to stay out of their way here. 

Robert has set our course to Little Bahama Bank waypoint, just north of Memory Rock. From that point we’ll make our way to Little Sale Cay and Green Turtle Cay where we will check in. With our auto pilot doing the steering, at least one of us has to keep watch. We’re doing about 3 hours on, 3 hours off for the 30 hour trip.

The commercial vessel in the photo above is riding the Gulf Stream, getting a few knots’ assistance from the curent and pushing a wave big enough to surf down! I have to imagine that if anyone who works in ship building could only see these mighty ships ploughing through the seas as we see them out here, it would make their day. How satisfying, to have a part in building something so impressive and useful! When we see them we think of Robert’s Godfather, Uncle Rob, a Ship’s Engineer, who loved the sea and sadly, passed away last year. Where would we be without these huge commercial vessels and those who build and work on them?

The sun sets over the U.S. mainland.

Canon Power Shot G9 is Cool

Is this an Osprey?  If you know the birds of Florida, I'd be glad to have your comment.

Robert's camera is so much fun to use that I find myself grabbing it first and leaving my much heavier digital SLR in its case.  For quick shots it's pretty cool.  The Power Shot G9 is a 12.1 mega pixel camera and I'd describe it as something in between an SLR and a point and shoot.  

I especially like the image stabilization when I'm taking photos from the boat.  The 25x zoom is amazing, and the macro feature isn't bad although I'd never compare it to my macro lenses for the SLR.

I'm pleased I was able to get the shot of the bird taking flight as we dinghied around one of the small islands at Vero Beach.  You can see the feet just leaving the resting spot and the soft under feathers as the wings are spread for flight.  It's wonderful to see these magnificent birds up close.

Birds Everywhere

The wealth of bird life in Florida is almost embarrassing!  The trees are full of pelicans! We are used to seeing a few Cardinals, Bluejays and Gold Finches in our backyard in Maryland but the abundance of life on the waterways as we travel down the East Coast of the United States has to be seen to be believed.  Come to think of it, this country can boast amazing natural riches from east to west and north to south.

The common name for the Anhinga is Snake Bird because only it's long neck and head are visible as it swims across the water.  This bird let us know she did not want to be interrupted while drying her wings.

The brown pelicans are fun to watch as they crash dive into the water to quickly scoop up a fish.

Northern Mockingbird?

Grackle, Charleston, SC

Rafted Up in Vero Beach

Vero Beach mooring, just off the ICW and tucked behind small, sandy islands teaming with life. No alligators sighted by us yet though. The area is also teaming with Canadians! Almost half of the boats are under Canadian flags. Vero Beach (or Velcro Beach because some never leave) is a popular anchorage for anyone preparing to take the jump off the East Coast to the Bahamas. Plenty of services here!

Bristol Rose is to the left of the catamaran. They pack 'em in here.

Typically 3 to a mooring ball.

Bristol Rose rafted up to Feelin Lucky in Vero Beach, Florida

PhEwww, What Stinks?

"What stinks?" we were all asking as we got into the dinghy to head ashore for a shower one morning in St. Augustine.

Someone must have left fishing bait lying on the deck.  A quick check of the fishing gear, no, nothing stinky there.  Boy, you guys really need that shower!  No, the smell is much worse than that.  Wait, what are those spots that weren't there before?

  

What's that dripping from up there on the spreader?  Who knows, but the boat sure needs a wash down.  Let's take care of showers and we'll clean up when we get back on  board.  Sure hope that stink goes away.  Maybe the head is at fault.

I can't believe it.  I'm killing myself laughing at the sight greeting us as we return.  The boys like to congratulate themselves on their fishing prowess but this is ridiculous - now we have fish falling from the skies?!

So that's the stink!  Blood dribble and all!  That bird I heard this morning must have deposited it's catch up on the spreader and it's finally landed on top of our cockpit cover.  Thanks, but no thanks, this one won't be gracing our dinner table.

Goodbyes in St. Augustine

St. Augustine is a lot of fun!

There just wasn't enough time with our boys, Owen and Elliot, before they had to leave us in St. Augustine.  It was a wonderful 4 days and great to see them for Christmas.  They especially enjoyed the old city and the repreive from the cold, snowy Maryland winter. Temps in St. Augustine are around 70 degrees!

Look Mum, I can balance Bristol Rose on my head!

Elliot really showed Robert how to fish in St. Augustine; black bass, black drum, and a few others that didn't make their way to the dinner table.

We moved south after saying goodbye yesterday, to friends Jon and Shawna, Beausoleil, whom we'd met in Charleston.  We enjoyed some good times with them and hope to see them again soon.

We've arrived after a 30 hour offshore passage, in Ft. Pierce.  Tomorrow we'll travel the 15 miles north on the ICW to Vero Beach.  We plan to spend some time there while we finalize some still outstanding loose ends before heading for West Palm Beach to prepare for our jump to the Bahamas.

Preparing for Offshore Passages - Everything in its Place

We’ve found the best of both worlds for sailing along the East Coast of the US; the generally safe, Intracoastal Waterway and the offshore passages with inlets allowing us to skip in and out as the weather allows. Traveling the ICW, although very interesting and a wonderful experience, can also be frustrating with many “obstacles” to be overcome - low and slow-opening bridges, wakes and shallow depths, tides and shoals, a lot of motoring etc. By going offshore, we have the chance to sail the ocean rather than motor down the ICW, and can jump ahead quite a way. Doing this we buy ourselves a little extra time in the places we enjoy most and make good progress towards the Bahamas, all at the same time.

Preparing ourselves and our boat for an offshore passage is not so complicated as it is time consuming. We’re still working on developing the best habits for safety and sailing comfort, in an organized fashion. No major blunders so far, touch wood, but there’s always room for improvement. Shortening the time it takes us to get to the last task before leaving an anchorage, i.e. raising the anchor, is a real goal. Up to that point, there are a few other things to be done.

Some things don’t seem to be possible in quick time. We are not using the davits that came with Bristol Rose because (1) we installed the windvane on the transom and (2) they did not raise the dinghy high enough above the waterline for our liking when offshore. So we raise the outboard and dinghy by other means. We use the mizzen halyard to raise the outboard. That takes some doing, with Robert in the dinghy guiding the very heavy motor up onto it’s support bracket on the stern rails. We tie off a safety line to a cleat, just in case of a slip. Needless to say, Robert exhibits exceptional balancing skills standing up in the dinghy, thanks to many years of surfing. We then use the main halyard to raise the dinghy up over the safety rails, either port or starboard side. We deflate and secure it on deck where it fits neatly under the main boom. Although it weighs around 120 pounds, the halyard takes the weight and makes it easier to manoeuver into place. It’s best to have calm winds and seas before attempting these tasks.

Prior to this, is the morning trip ashore for Daisie's comfort - a must. There’s also a quick breakfast of coffee and cereal and the last minute stowing of loose objects below decks. Every good sailor checks to see that every hatch, latch and space is secured to minimize the risks of missiles flying around during rough passages. Even so, we can be surprised by what can shake loose in a bouncy sea.

We put on our seasickness wristbands; so far so good! Navagational instruments are switched on and charts are at hand. We know we have full tanks of diesel and water because we filled them the day before. Up on deck, there’s a place for everything and we have everthing in place; safety equipment, ditch bag, jaklines and life jackets ready, drinks and snacks, binoculars, camera, fishing rod, sunscreen, etc. We’re wearing our foulies or have them ready to throw on in case of rain or cold weather. Sail covers are removed and stowed in cockpit lockers. Rigging and lines are checked to make sure they are set up for sailing; nothing out of place and everything in good working condition - good to go.

In the six weeks we’ve been living aboard and cruising, we’ve taken advantage of every opportunity to get to a supermarket close by to stock and replenish the galley. Thanks to Robert’s exceptional cooking skills we do well in the galley department. I fancy myself as a provisioning queen, determined to replenish stores where needed. We make sure to have snacks and drinks at hand and we usually heat up frozen pre-prepared meals in the oven once underway. Even though the stove and oven are gimbaled so they stay somewhat level, we prefer to limit heating of food to the oven - or microwave.

It’s now 27 hours later, and we are still a couple of hours from the inlet where we plan to come back into the ICW and look for an anchorage for the evening. It’s been an uneventful trip, about 4 miles offshore, sailing, motorsailing and motoring when there was no wind at all. A highlight is passing Cape Canaveral. We’ve visited NASA by land years ago but this time we see the launch platforms all lit up, incredibly bright, hundreds of feet tall. As well as various brightly lit installations, there are miles of flat ground. The vastness of the NASA site is very evident from the water. It takes us hours at about 7 knots to pass. Next launch is scheduled for February. That would be cool to see from out at sea!

We’ve each been able to sleep a little when not on watch but it will be nice to finally arrive at our destination, Ft. Pierce and then travel a few miles north on the ICW to Vero Beach on Wednesday for a longer stay.

Boxing Day! Foggy but Fun.

Ahh, Boxing Day. The pressure is off; usually no need to cook today. Family dinners mean too much food is prepared but the upside; plenty of leftovers. We humble Aussie folk have no servants to give to, which is the origin of Boxing Day in the days of the English Gentry, when left overs would be boxed up for those less fortunate. This day, December 26, remains a favorite day in the holidays for us. Our family tradition is to invite friends for a party. No party this year but we are thrilled to be sharing this boating experience with our boys.

The sun rises through a thick fog, Boxing Day in St. Augustine, FL.

The view from our bow, around 9am

Wow, a gorgeous fog rainbow!

Merry Christmas All Together in St. Augustine!

Christmas 2008

We picked Owen and Elliot up from Jacksonville Airport, then last minute grocery shopping, evening stroll through the cobblestone streets of St Augustine followed by dinner at a Cuban restaurant. It's so good to have our boys with us for Christmas.

The historic buildings are stunning during these "Nights of Lights"

Playing with light. St. Augustine is truly a sea of lights during the Holidays.

Christmas morning, we all slept-in, can you believe that!

Owen looks out over the bow of Bristol Rose

Somehow Santa found us, although she was very creative with make shift gift wrapping. Lots of excitement over morning coffee and cereal. The air was still, sun broke through the clouds to deliver a delightful day in the mid 70's.

This evening, we celebrate with Christmas Dinner; Cornish Game Hens, Stuffing, Gravy, Roast Vegetables.

Daisie waits patiently on deck for the boys to return from a short dinghy ride. She has it all worked out. Life is so much better when we are all together.

St. Augustine is Our Kind of Town

A brief reccy this morning and what seemed like an overly long, week-long stay, could possibly be too short! St. Augustine looks like our kind of town - overt tourism aside! The history is what attracted our attention as a location for our Christmas Holiday visit with Owen and Elliot. Spanish/American architecture, cobblestone streets, restaurants and cafes, streets of art galleries and high end stores, museums and the fort, Castillo de San Marcos. I have my heart set on lunch at a quaint little Greek restaurant, and then perhaps Cuban for dinner? Can't wait for the boys to arrive when we'll do a lot more sightseeing. Adding to our delight, $60 for the week buys us hot showers at the Municipal Marina, a spot to tie the dinghy, and access to the laundry and free internet! Anchored out, south of the Bridge of Lions puts us right on the doorstep of the city. You can count on photos being posted soon! Check it out: http://www.st.augustine.com/

Too Close in a Fog.

Flags over Fort Sumter, Charleston, SC shrouded in fog.

Foggy Images!                          

Has the fog cleared yet?  

We left Charleston, South Carolina in heavy fog, a real pea soup, and approached St. Mary's Inlet to Fernandina Beach, Florida in heavy fog 28 hours later.  

The sun comes up after a day and night offshore.

We motorsailed most of the 180 miles, taking turns at watch, keeping a lookout for other boats.  Oh, we totally skipped Georgia by going offshore.  Definitely a preferred option for us on hearing that the state does little to maintain depths (and boater safety) along the ICW.  There was not a lot of traffic, about 20 miles offshore, until a few miles outside the markers for the inlet.  Radar picked up what we thought to be fishing trawlers within a mile of the markers and a couple of miles ahead of us.  We sounded our fog horn a few times and heard nothing in return.

All of a sudden we were surrounded by birds.  Did the radar pick up all these birds that we thought were ships?  We both joked that we should have a line out to get in on the action and maybe catch some dinner.  How naieve.  In a second, a ghost ship appeared beside us.  Ok, we were pretty tired after 28 hours and only quick bites of sleep!  A shrimp trawler with arms outstretched and nets dragging can look a little dark and ominous looming out of a thick fog.  Did the captain even see us?  There was no sign of life on deck and no recognition except that the boat silently glided on and we turned away to avoid fouling the nets and ourselves!

Shrimp Trawler passes Bristol Rose, too close!

Although our radar was working just fine, we found that fishing vessels can be unpredictable in their movements.  That as well as a heavy fog and the lack of any kind of communication between vessels or control over what another vessel may do could have turned a close shave into something much worse.

Fort Clinch, Florida