Monday, February 8, 2010

Oh Panama Part II

What have you done!

First you showed us Kuna Yala, surely the most picture perfect of tropical islands. Spectacular!

Now we are in the Las Perlas archipelago on the Pacific side of Panama. The Las Perlas islands are different from Kuna Yala in the same way that the Pacific is different from the Caribbean, however equally as beautiful.

On the way, barely out of the anchorage and across the channel that is part of the Panama Canal, we hook a beautiful 20lb Mahi Mahi.

The water compared to the Caribbean has a green tinge and is not so clear; cooler but teaming with sea life; fish are larger and not so easily spooked, white sand beaches with dense tropical dry forests; there's a richness here of flora and fauna. Many birds live on the islands and work the waters morning and afternoon. We now see 15 ft tides! Now, that is different when it comes to navigation, anchoring or leaving the dinghy on the beach.

Anchorages are gentle with no roll, and they're not crowded. So far we have shared our overnight anchorages with only one other boat. Sports fishing boats come and go but don't stay over night.

When we awake to the sounds of the birds diving for fish and the sight of huge boulders scattered about, we have a brief thought that we are anchored in Penobscot Bay off the coast of Maine, that is before we look to another shore to see white sand beaches and palm trees.

Panama, you surprise us at every turn. What a perfect start to our Pacific crossing!
(posted by SSB radio, pictures will be uploaded when wifi is available, maybe in the Galapagos)

Mucho Molas of Kuna Yala


Think Kuna Indians of the San Blas Islands and you are thinking Molas! No visit to Kuna Yala is complete without a mola shopping experience. Some of the Bristol Rose crew got more involved in mola shopping than others.

Traditional mola designs are very geometric with themes of animals, ceremonies, nature.
Children often come along for the ride as mother or grandmother show their work for sale.

Sales made, time to sail to the next boat or island.

We all enjoyed the mola experience as various Kunas visited us in their dug out canoes while we were at anchor.

Vernancio, much more than a traveling salesperson

When we thought we had purchased enough molas (if that is ever possible) we received a visit from Venancio. We are very glad we did not turn him away, he has quite the reputation for creating very fine molas.

Venancio's molas are impossible to resist, so I didn't!

Master mola artist Venancio Restrepo shows his business card and descriptions of his work in a publication about Molas.

Taking an educational approach to his salesmanship, Venancio shows how to recognize the work of the masters. Molas by Venancio and Lisa (whom we did not get a chance to meet) are said to be the finest currently available.


Venancio makes perfect matches of thread to fabric. Here he also shows that his stitching is extremely straight, with each stitch carefully mastered and accurately counted for perfect symmetry.


Layer upon layer of fabric, expertly cut and stitched to reveal more colors beneath.

Sea themes are popular in molas.


Venancio stitches his name into his molas.

Two-toned molas are less common but often more striking.

This Kuna home displays a number of applique molas of modern or non-traditional design.

As the book says, "There are also subjects resulting from acculturation that are often amusing and interesting....". This mola is quite a departure from the traditional in theme yet displays some very fine stitching. Maybe not to every taste but still, quite, umm, interesting.

Maybe not a masterpiece, one of my first purchases, just because I like the flow of the design.

I couldn't resist buying a traditional blouse from this young mola maker.

"Photo, $1"

Mola designs are plentiful, that's what makes them so interesting to look at. You know that you'll always see something new and surprising among the many mola artists of Kuna Yala. For much more information on the San Blas and Panama, see Owen's Ancestral Skills blog.

Sunday, February 7, 2010

Dog gone but not forgotten!

Sadly we had to say farewell to one of Bristol Rose's favourite crew members prior to departing Caribbean waters. Miss Daisie made many friends throughout the Caribean and has quite a fan base online. It is not the same sailing without her.


She is staying with a good friend, Donna and family in Maryland prior to making the long flight back to Australia.

We look forward to having Miss Daisie back with us and are comforted with the knowledge that she is loved and cared for by good friends.

Thursday, February 4, 2010

Oh Panama!


What have you done? High powered sports fishing boats rule.

Surely in a big city with a rich maritime history one could be forgiven for expecting good support for cruising sail boats. Not So.

Fuel Polishing Service costs the same as in the US however the process involves pumping your fuel tanks dry and taking the contaminated fuel away. We expect the fuel will be filtered and re-sold. So we pay twice.

Riggers and sail makers are almost impossible to find. Needed an impeller for a pump. No luck.

Fedex Express costs the same as the States but takes 4 days longer in Panama.

Panama should wear Elliot's old t-shirt with the printed name tag: "Hello, My name is JACK SQUAT. Don't expect too much out of me".

Oh well, next port to get boat chandlery or repairs done looks to be Australia.

Islands of Kuna Yala, San Blas


Bristol Rose in paradise!






Island home of the Kuna
















Beach BBQ with friends.




Rosemary and Matt from Crazy Horse



Elliot makes a new friend


Budd Boys like to play with fire









Owen Builds the Fire





Rex, Tom, Gerald, Kim and Owen


Owen tends the fire
OT
El

Don't get much better


Friday, January 29, 2010

People of Kuna Yala

If you go to Kuna Yala, you'll surely find the people to be fun loving and friendly. Volleyball is played with enthusiasm. Babies are truly adored and children seem to enjoy an abundance of attention. These images reflect just a small sample of our experience in the San Blas Islands.
























































Thursday, January 28, 2010

New Camera for Christmas

Owen & Elliot
Robert got a new underwater camera for Christmas. It's an Olympus. Elliot gets to share and has taken a lot of underwater shots. Enjoy!


Dog Island, San Blas Islands

Rex snapping pics on Dog Island wreck, San Blas




Lemmon Cays, San Blas Islands

Feather Duster

Social Feather Dusters

Hermit Crab



Flamingo Tongue





Christmas Tree Worm







Anemone

Owen

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Check us out on the Panama Canal, Thursday

Rex on the high seas.

We will be travelling through the Millaflores Locks around 1700 UTC (around noon US Eastern Standard Time) on Thursday, Jan. 28. Click here for web cam. Bristol Rose is rafted up to the Catamaran Tucanon and Sloop Eowyn. We will be at the front of the pack on the right hand side. Check us out.