Long Overdue... Images of Our Panama Canal Transit

Here are some pics of our experience transiting the Panama Canal. For a more indepth account of the process, see Owen's Ancestral Skills and Primitive Tech Blog.

One of many ships waiting to transit the Panama Canal on the Caribbean side.

Robert and Rex at Shelter Bay Marina

We left Shelter Bay on the Caribbean side of Panama on the afternoon of Wednesday, January 27 with half the World ARC fleet to transit the Panama Canal. After a short time anchored at the Flats our pilot came onboard. The next afternoon we arrived at Flamenco Marina on the Pacific side of Panama.

Arriving at the flats in the afternoon, we see friends on Chocobo and Marionetta

What an amazing experience for us all, to transit this amazing engineering marvel. The US opened the canal in 1914 (you already knew that). The earlier failed attempt by the French resulted in the loss of 21,900 lives mostly through disease. The US effort resulted in a further loss of 5,600 lives.

For our transit, we were rafted with the catamaran Tucanon in the middle and Eowyn over on the other side. Our Canal Pilot, Jimmy, was onboard Bristol Rose for the entire transit. He was extremely helpful. Our line handlers were Rex, Owen and Elliot.

We spent Wednesday night in the lake secured to a mooring ball along with a large canal cruiser called Discovery. Jimmy was back onboard for an early 6am start.

Opening the gates to the Pacific

The last lock gate is opened, bow line is retrieved and we are on our way beyond the locks, through the waters of the Pacific Ocean.

The Bridge of the Americas

Panama City

Our friends from the first half of the ARC fleet gave us a warm welcome on our arrival at Flamenco Marina. It was good to be all together again.

Web cam views of ARC boats entering the Miraflores locks and the lock as the water level goes down. Bristol Rose is in the first group of 3 boats.

Oh Panama Part III

Panama, this is insane!
Have you ever seen a cruising boat without a list of things to do? Although some of the items on our to do list could not be done in Panama City, we've been able to put them aside for now and enjoy the time in Las Perlas. The islands have far exceeded our expectations.
We are currently in Isla Del Rey anchored off a black sand beach in Concholon Bay. The bay is lined with mango and coconut trees, Bristol Rose is the only boat at anchor.
Earlier this afternoon we stopped in at Esmeralda Village on the way from Rio Cacique. A man and a couple of young boys came out in a small dugout canoe to greet us. Before we had a chance to hand them a bailing bucket their little canoe filled with water and tipped. There was no great drama, Elliot came to the rescue with our dinghy and a bucket and we all shared a laugh.
We asked if it was ok to anchor and we were invited to come ashore to see some pearls (very tiny). Our purchase of some papayas and bananas and a dozen eggs went very easily with the help of a young man named Alexander, who is keen to practice his English. Alexander escorted us on an impromptu tour of his small town, introducing us to his family, pointing out the school, the cockfighting arena, the town park (a raised square with a large mango tree encircled by benches), the supermarket and the cantina. Although everyone we meet is genuinely friendly and welcoming, we can't stay long. We need to get to our anchorage before dark. A crowd of young children run to the beach to help us into the dinghy and say goodbye.
On the way around the spectacular southern end of Isla Del Rey we put out a lure to try our luck. It was lost within minutes. We re-attached another lure in time to catch a 20lb jack. Elliot quickly puts the line out again just as we turned to our anchorage for the night. This time it's a Mahi Mahi, just in time for dinner with more than enough for the five of us.
After dinner, using cut bait, we tried our luck over the side of Bristol Rose. In no time at all we have a 5lb Schoolmaster Snapper. This one we'll cook whole as our trusty guide to fishes tells us they're excellent eating. This is not insane, it's incredible!
What a day, once again Panama, the people, the beautiful islands, the abundance of aquatic life, all have surprised us.
Posted via SSB Radio.

Oh Panama Part II

What have you done!
First you showed us Kuna Yala, surely the most picture perfect of tropical islands. Spectacular!
Now we are in the Las Perlas archipelago on the Pacific side of Panama. The Las Perlas islands are different from Kuna Yala in the same way that the Pacific is different from the Caribbean, however equally as beautiful.
On the way, barely out of the anchorage and across the channel that is part of the Panama Canal, we hook a beautiful 20lb Mahi Mahi.
The water compared to the Caribbean has a green tinge and is not so clear; cooler but teaming with sea life; fish are larger and not so easily spooked, white sand beaches with dense tropical dry forests; there's a richness here of flora and fauna. Many birds live on the islands and work the waters morning and afternoon. We now see 15 ft tides! Now, that is different when it comes to navigation, anchoring or leaving the dinghy on the beach.
Anchorages are gentle with no roll, and they're not crowded. So far we have shared our overnight anchorages with only one other boat. Sports fishing boats come and go but don't stay over night.
When we awake to the sounds of the birds diving for fish and the sight of huge boulders scattered about, we have a brief thought that we are anchored in Penobscot Bay off the coast of Maine, that is before we look to another shore to see white sand beaches and palm trees.
Panama, you surprise us at every turn. What a perfect start to our Pacific crossing!
(posted by SSB radio, pictures will be uploaded when wifi is available, maybe in the Galapagos)

Mucho Molas of Kuna Yala

Think Kuna Indians of the San Blas Islands and you are thinking Molas! No visit to Kuna Yala is complete without a mola shopping experience. Some of the Bristol Rose crew got more involved in mola shopping than others.

Traditional mola designs are very geometric with themes of animals, ceremonies, nature.

Children often come along for the ride as mother or grandmother show their work for sale.

Sales made, time to sail to the next boat or island.

We all enjoyed the mola experience as various Kunas visited us in their dug out canoes while we were at anchor.

Vernancio, much more than a traveling salesperson

When we thought we had purchased enough molas (if that is ever possible) we received a visit from Venancio. We are very glad we did not turn him away, he has quite the reputation for creating very fine molas.

Venancio's molas are impossible to resist, so I didn't!

Master mola artist Venancio Restrepo shows his business card and descriptions of his work in a publication about Molas.

Taking an educational approach to his salesmanship, Venancio shows how to recognize the work of the masters. Molas by Venancio and Lisa (whom we did not get a chance to meet) are said to be the finest currently available.

Venancio makes perfect matches of thread to fabric. Here he also shows that his stitching is extremely straight, with each stitch carefully mastered and accurately counted for perfect symmetry.

Layer upon layer of fabric, expertly cut and stitched to reveal more colors beneath.

Sea themes are popular in molas.

Venancio stitches his name into his molas.

Two-toned molas are less common but often more striking.

This Kuna home displays a number of applique molas of modern or non-traditional design.

As the book says, "There are also subjects resulting from acculturation that are often amusing and interesting....". This mola is quite a departure from the traditional in theme yet displays some very fine stitching. Maybe not to every taste but still, quite, umm, interesting.

Maybe not a masterpiece, one of my first purchases, just because I like the flow of the design.

I couldn't resist buying a traditional blouse from this young mola maker.

"Photo, $1"

Mola designs are plentiful, that's what makes them so interesting to look at. You know that you'll always see something new and surprising among the many mola artists of Kuna Yala. For much more information on the San Blas and Panama, see Owen's Ancestral Skills blog.

Oh Panama!

What have you done? High powered sports fishing boats rule.

Surely in a big city with a rich maritime history one could be forgiven for expecting good support for cruising sail boats. Not So.

Before we cross the Pacific we want to be sure our fuel is not contaminated so we take advantage of the Fuel Polishing Service. It costs the same as in the US however the process involves pumping your fuel tanks dry and taking the fuel away. We expect the fuel will be filtered and re-sold. 

Riggers and sail makers are almost impossible to find. Needed an impeller for a pump. No luck.

Fedex Express costs the same as the States but takes 4 days longer in Panama.

We have not found a boat chandlery. The next opportunity for parts or repairs may be Australia.

People of Kuna Yala

If you go to Kuna Yala, you'll surely find the people to be fun loving and friendly. Volleyball is played with enthusiasm. Babies are truly adored and children seem to enjoy an abundance of attention. These images reflect just a small sample of our experience in the San Blas Islands.