Homeward Bound sails The Grenadines

Randy demonstrates for Bristol Rose how it is done.

Some years ago, at White Rocks marina on the Chesapeake, we first met Randy and Pat from Homeward Bound. Homeward Bound is a beatifull Bruce Roberts designed Spray. Randy would entertain us with stories of how he and Pat planned to sail south to the Caribbean. As our plans to sail south came together we were thrilled at the prospect that we would both be heading south at the same time.

Randy is always quick to point out that each is his own captain and each Captain must make his own decisions aboout where and when to go. We repected Randy's opinion when he decided to leave in September, we did not leave until November.

We did catch up with Homeward Bound in Rock Sound, Eleuthera. True to his independent word and mumbling something about needing a "body tune up", Capt. Randy decided it would be far better to travel North to make headway South, so we bid Randy and Pat good bye hoping to see Homeward Bound Down Island.

What a thrill it would be to see Homeward Bound in the Grenadines.

Robert, Dave (Nikita) and Randy (Homeward Bound) discuss suitable attire for keeping warm in the tropics while Daisie looks on in disbelief.

Bristol Rose and Homeward Bound at anchor in the Tobago Cays

Around Eleuthera

The ruins of the W.P. Stewart home, Royal Island, Eleuthera

Floor tiles

Abandoned years ago.

Our first stop on the island of Eleuthera is Royal Island. There is no town center near the anchorage, only signs of construction and demolition around the small, protected harbour. We are told that a golf resort is being built, the Jack Nicklaus Golf Club! In the process, the ruins of what must have once been a beautiful home, the W.P. Stewart home built in the 1930's, are being demolished.

From Royal Island we make our way through the Current Cut (very appropriately named!). With the engine revving at 3000rpms and our speed at 6.5 knots, speed over ground is a miserly 2.9 knots due to the opposing current in the cut.

Approaching Current Cut, we follow the deeper water around and through the channel. It looks like just a narrow strip of water - and it is just that.

Glass Window. A number of people have been washed away when huge waves have crashed over the bridge. The bridge has even shifted but remains the crossing point from one end of Eleuthera to the other.

We get in a little sailing past Glass Window - well, we beat into the wind at around 25 knots, and anchor off the palm-fringed beach at Mutton Fish Point with no other boat in sight.

Bristol Rose anchored off the beach, Mutton Fish Point, Eleuthera

After six and a half hours sailing, or rather, beating into the wind again and tacking back and forth, we anchor at Governor's Harbour, a comparatively "bustling" town settled in 1648 by the Eleuthera Adverturers who came from Bermuda.

Tiny Cupid's Cay is joined to Governor's by a land bridge. One of our "discoveries" on Cupid's is what appears to be a road cut four to six inches into the rock and leading up and around the headland. Twisted, searching roots cut the rock here and there. The trees lining the road are leafless and sun-bleached, indicating those roots were not very successful in their search for any long-term sustenance! It's a harsh, dry landscape and we find ourselves often making comparisons with Australia.

Aussie import, the Casuarina (soil erosion preventer) is listed as one of the five most undesirable plants in the Bahamas due to the ability to "cramp" native species of plants.

Posted at the museum in Hope Town, Abaco.

We found this block (approx. 2'x2'x3') of rubber on the ocean-side beach of Rock Sound

Mr. Horton talks with Robert and Randy about the efforts to build a garden of native flora around the site of the blue hole in Rock Sound. He volunteers his time to the project.

The people of Rock Sound are very industrious and despite the fact that folks in the Bahamas have as difficult a time as you can imagine in the current financial times, they are warm and friendly and extremely welcoming.

The narrow entrance to Davis Harbour

Bristol Rose is among some truly beautiful pleasure fishing boats in Davis Harbour Marina

Davis Harbour is our last stop in Eleuthera, before we cross to the Exumas. While Homewood Bound heads north to the Abacos, Bristol Rose, Step Two, and Sand Castle all leave Rock Sound together, heading for Davis Harbour to stage for various points south.

We don't mess with Barracuda of any size. Teeth aside, the possibility of ciguaterra poisoning is not worth the risk.

www.eleuthera.com is a good resource if you're interested in more about the island.

Fair Winds, Calm Seas!

Homeward Bound sails out of Rock Sound on a misty morning.

The night is young, where shall we start?

Alas, we bid a sad farewell to our mates Pat and Randy this morning. The past ten days in Rock Sound, Eleuthera have been wonderful with their company and that of the others on the few vessels at anchor here. 

The friendliness of the local people also has added to our enjoyment and we’ll be sad to move on tomorrow.  

Daisie gets plenty of attention!

We'll sail for Davis Harbour on the south west coast of Eleuthera early in the morning to refill our water and diesel tanks, get some laundry done and stage for our next step.  From Eleuthera, that will mean crossing the Exuma Sound and working our way to Allan's Cay through one of the cuts.  The cuts can be rough when the winds are blowing against the currents that rush through them.  Most are fairly narrow and at times it can be downright dangerous so we will time our crossing to minimize any high seas and opposing winds.

Homeward Bound in Rock Sound

Starfish Smile.

Yep, we are homeward bound for Australia via a long and roundabout route but that’s not the subject of this post. We’ve finally caught up with our mates Pat and Randy sailing aboard their beautiful home, S/V Homeward Bound. They made it easy for us to catch up since they have turned north from George Town, while we are heading south through Eleuthera and on to the Exumas and George Town.

Pat and Randy, S/V Homeward Bound in Rock Sound

We last saw Pat and Randy at their farewell on the Chesapeake Bay back in September. Fun times were had with them and the E Pier crew at White Rocks Marina in Pasadena where we kept our first sailboat, Sandpiper.

Robert, Daisie, Warren (S/V Sandcastle), Linda (M/V Step Two) and Randy

at the Super Bowl Bahamas style.

If making new friends is one of the sweetest things about cruising (and it is!) then revisiting old friends is the icing on the cake. We’re thoroughly enjoying both during our stay at Rock Sound, Eleuthera. The Tiki Bar in Rock Sound televised the Super Bowl so all the cruisers in the harbour - all 5 boats, turned up to watch the game. Yeah, Steelers!

Everyone in Rock Sound is super-friendly. You risk getting a sore throat and strained waving arm just walking down the street, from all the greetings. We got to see a little more of Eleuthera when fellow Super Bowl revelers, Jeff and Laurie, drove us to the beach for snorkeling and to see their island home.

Great weather for ducks.

It seems the weather has conspired to prolong our planned stay in Rock Sound and it looks like we will be here for a while yet. The cold weather through the States has blown across to the Bahamas. Gone are the days of temps in the 70’s; the cold fronts, one after another are bringing high winds, the occasional squall and temps in the 60’s. That doesn’t stop us from getting out and about and taking the opportunity to spend time with our mates. Check Pat and Randy’s blog for more pictures of us all having a great time. http://hbsailing.com