Keswick Island to Brampton Island

The water around Keswick and St. Bees is clean and clear.  This seems to be a popular spot for recreational fishermen.  The fish caught by the Bristol Rose crew are interesting but none are keeper-sized.

 

We'd like to get to as many islands as possible while Elliot is aboard so we sail to Brampton Island with the wind directly behind us; southeasterly 15-20 knots.

Anchored a short way off the jetty, we jump in the dinghy and soon find the jetty is a complete wreck, separated from the land during the last cyclone.  Getting ashore is now a little challenging due to the rocky shoreline but we manage to tie to a rock and clamber up to the path.  The sun is setting and the path is very overgrown but it looks like a place we'd like to explore tomorrow.

Growing up in Australia I knew Brampton Island as one of Queensland's premier resort islands, just 20 miles north of Mackay.  Those days are gone for Brampton and a few others in the Whitsundays.  Natural disasters, Australia's mining "boom", high wages, high currency rates and relatively cheap overseas vacations have hit home-grown tourism hard.  It's quite a sad sight, looking just as if everyone simply stopped what they were doing, got up and left.  There are some reports that a Chinese group has purchased and will re-develop.  For now, Brampton Is. offers a National Park with a couple of walks and an off-limits resort wasteland.

Keswick and St. Bees

The first islands we visit are Keswick and St. Bees, 15 miles north east of Mackay and part of the group called the Cumberland Islands.  The Whitsundays Group is 45 miles further north.

The two islands are separated by the narrow Egremont Passage with strong tidal currents of 3-4 knots.  With the prevailing winds being east-southeast at 15-20 knots we choose an anchorage protected in those conditions.  We are happy to pick up a mooring ball.  This does not lessen the roll in the anchorage but does allow us to be secure in an area with a mostly coral bottom, deep water and sand patches too small to risk dropping an anchor.

We have time this afternoon to explore one of the beaches on St. Bees.  Tomorrow morning Robert and Elliot want to fish along the northern side.

Rosslyn Bay to Mackay

Elliot after a hard night sailing.

The next pick up point for me is Mackay, almost 4 hours drive, where I will visit Deb and Roger while waiting for the sailors to catch up.  It should take Bristol Rose 3 days with overnight stops to reach Mackay.

Finding the currents against them off Port Clinton, Robert and Elliot decided to do an overnight and arrived in Mackay a day early, the morning of July 2nd.  We've all been looking froward to reaching Mackay.  If the weather is favourable Roger will show us some of his favourite anchorages off the coast.  Roger and Deb are helping us out by keeping the car safely at their place while we sail further north.

The weather has other plans and we won't be getting out to the islands this weekend.  So Roger and Deb drive us all up to Airlie Beach where we'd arranged for a sail loft to replace the sacrificial cover on our genoa.  We constantly use this sail so it's not surprising that although we'd had it re-stitched in Tahiti, the thread has perished.  The sail is in good shape though.  When we sail Bristol Rose north we'll pick it up, ready to fly again.  

We also made a stop at Proserpine and had a great day checking out some of Deb's favourite spots.  Thanks to Deb we discovered in Mackay one of the best farmers markets anywhere.  The market stalls sell the usual European and tropical vegies, plus local red papaya, sweet mandarines (it's winter here), avocados, and also a wide variety of Asian vegetables, some of which I've only seeen on a TV cooking program.  One of these is Pandan.  It's used to flavour rice.  The friendly Filipino grower went to pains to describe all its uses and looked through the bunches to find a piece with roots attached so I can try growing my own.  We came away with all the fresh fruits and vegies we need for the next stage of the journey north to The Whitsundays.

Because the islands of the Whitsundays are zoned conservation or national park dogs are not allowed.  We've taken Daisie to a "Canine Lodge" north of Mackay, or as Robert puts it (despite the best care of and attention to the canines) "jail".  It's hard to think of it as anything else.  The environment is so far removed from Daisie's usual accommodations.  A comfy cosy bed by the lounge, a dog futon in the sunroom, a soft warm fluffy thing by our bed, and a floor pillow on the boat are usually available for her sleeping comfort.  Spoilt?  Maybe just a bit spoilt for choice.

Daisie comes from a country with many outdoor dangers, bears, coyotes, porcupines, raccoons, rabies, severe cold.  Any of these could mean injury or death for a dog left outside.   Even in rural Australia the outdoors at night can present dangers for a small dog.  Daisie's routine is as regular as clockwork; out for a walk in the morning, helping with sailing or other activities with us, a walk last thing before the sun goes down and then it's in for the night.   She's well trained, well adjusted, gentle and loving.  If anything she may be too well socialised, approaching everyone and every living thing as a friend.  She's a perfect boat dog.

1770 to Rosslyn Bay

Daisie watches Bristol Rose leaving 1770

The next long leg for the crew of Bristol Rose is 1770 to Rosslyn Bay, Yeppoon, with stops at Pancake Creek and Cape Capricorn.  Robert and Elliot dinghy Daisie and I over to the dock.  

We jump in the car and drive up to Round Hill Head to see them safely out through the very narrow bar to the open ocean.  

By road it is an easy drive to Rockhampton.  The big challenge is finding a pet friendly place for Daisie and I to spend a couple of nights.  We spent one night in a rather unfortunate hotel in Rockhampton and moved on early the next morning to Yeppoon.  I found an accommodating Tourist/Caravan Park where we spent a peaceful night in a 1950's style fibro semi-detached "cabin".  When Daisie and I walked the next morning I was surprised to see a notice attached to the outside wall "DANGER ASBESTOS".  Do not drill or ....".  Luckily we had not expected to do any renovations and had left the tools at home.  The best of both accommodations was the genuinely friendly people we encountered.

We checked out early to get breakfast and a good look at the Kepple Bay Marina in Rosslyn Bay, where we'd meet Bristol Rose in a few hours.  So what is there to do while we wait?  There's only so much walking and coffee...  I could drive up to Byfield where there is a pottery artist's studio and giftshop.  Right up my alley, it's set in beautiful bushland and the owners encourage visitors to walk around the property.  Despite the owner's dog roaming the giftshop, visiting dogs are not welcome beyond the carpark, so my browsing was a lot shorter than it otherwise might have been.

Our stay at Kepple Bay Marina has been a little longer than planned but we had time to explore and get the usual jobs done like laundry, shopping, etc.  We had an unexpectedly excellent meal at the Marina.  The restaurant is first class, with a matching price tag - but what the heck!

Mooloolaba to 1770

Sunrise walkers.  The Mooloolaba light and bar can be seen between the trees.

Elliot and Robert make a pre-dawn departure from Mooloolaba sailing Bristol Rose to Fraser Island.  I'm driving to my sister's home at Carters Ridge, just a couple of hours away.

Fraser Island is such a special place it would be a shame to rush through.  Over the next five days Bristol Rose makes her way through the shoals of Fraser Island, stopping to fish and rest at Snout Point, Garrys Anchorage and Bennett Creek, then up the Burnett River to Bundaberg.

Daisie and I are at the lookout on Round Hill to watch the sailors bring Bristol Rose into the anchorage at the small town of 1770.  1770 is the first of Captain Cook's landing sites on the Queensland coast (the second in Australia).  Cook's ship The Endeavour was anchored about two miles off shore.  There is a stone monument in honour of the event in 1770.  The inscription reads:

Under the lee of This Point, 

Lieutenant James Cook, R.N.

Landed

on 24th May 1770

Robert and Elliot did well navigating their way in, which should only be attempted on high tide.  We noticed most of the fleet anchored at 1770 were smaller vessels.  The creek is shallow with a lot of shoaling and most cruisers bypass it for Pancake Creek, the next inlet north.  Pancake Creek is very popular with cruising boats, perhaps because it feels so remote, so peaceful and protected.  We met a Canadian cruiser who bypassed Pancake and 1770 in favour of Rodds Harbour where he was alone in the quiet anchorage.  

I found the local people to be some of the most friendly.  1770 is a popular fishing destination.  Fishermen bob about in tinnies, looking hungry for a bite.  The mangrove creeks of 1770 are so peppered with crab pots we're not sure if that's good or bad.  Turns out it's good for us.

Elliot has caught an astounding variety of fish in the area including Bream, Flounder, Whiting, Cat Fish, Flathead, a few we don't recognize and a mud crab.  We caught enough keepers to feed the three of us in style.  Miss Daisie has never fancied seafood much so it's dog food again for her.

Catching Up With Elliot

From the beach it's just a short walk across the road to the Mooloolaba Marina  on the river.

There's a nice little chandlery here just next to the marina so we do our best to boost the local economy.  It's time to bin the old yellow sailing jacket that's served Robert so well, how about a nice new red Musto, perfect fit!  There's always a reason to shop so we keep ourselves busy through the day with a few lingering "to dos".  The walk into the shopping centre in Mooloolaba is a bit further than we thought so shopping will be limited by what we can schlep back.  

It's just on sunset and Elliot's calling to tell us he's at the marina.  Fantastic!  We put him straight to work running errands in the car.  There are no passengers on this boat, only crew and Elliot is expert.  Over dinner at a local fish 'n chips joint we catch up on all his latest news about his studies and uni life.  Life is good.

Tangalooma to Mooloolaba

Anchored off the wrecks, Tangalooma, Moreton Bay

At dawn a sense of adventure compensates for loss of sleep.  Daisie Dog is not so sure.

In the early light the buoys marking the swimming beach are obvious.  We can't afford much time lingering over coffee to congratulate ourselves on getting the hook down safely off the wrecks in the dark last night.  We are on our way to Mooloolaba.  Elliot is on his way from Townsville to Brisbane to pick up the car and some of his things from the house.  It's uni semester break and we're looking forward to cruising Queensland's Great Barrier Reef and The Whitsundays islands with him.

We've motored through the rain today with no wind to sail.  The sun is shining over Mooloolaba, seas are calm, as we approach the river bar.  It always feels good to arrive and this arrival is one of the easiest, as we quietly approach our slip at Mooloolaba Marina.  A friendly liveaboard takes our lines and we are in.  Mooloolaba feels good to us!

Moreton Bay Roll

Daisie can always be counted on to lend a helping hand.

The last few months have been a blur of boat activity, home responsibilities, car purchasing, and hours driving back and forth on the Brisbane to Gold Coast Motorway. Balancing the needs of a boat and the demands of a rural property can bring on a case of split personalities.

Tonight we are anchored off the wrecks at Tangalooma, Moreton Island. We dropped the hook in the dark. A sigh of relief, we made it. After four and a half years of service as an "apartment", Bristol Rose is free to sail again.

During the rainy night we are reminded of some of the worst (most rolly/uncomfortable) anchorages we've experienced. Sleep comes in short shifts.