Paradise. Some things don't change

You'll find no trouble here - unless you brought it with you. Some people like to pack trouble with their toothbrush for an Island get away.
Vava'u group of Islands, Kingdom of Tonga are the model pacific islands for an escape. In the delightful port city of Neiafu many transplanted westerners have set up businesses along the waterfront. You don't need to be in Vava'u too long before you sense the tension between various groups on the island. Mainly because they like to air their disagreements over the air (channel 26 for the morning cruisers net and contact).
At the center of the tension is conflict between those who make their business in "Whale Watching", those who like to take their own boats to watch the whales, and those who simply want to ensure the welfare of the whales in Tongan waters. Interestingly enough, as the various groups squabble, I did not sense that any of the Tongan people had a "dog in the fight". Rumblings seem to be limited to the expat community.
So what is it all about? Frankly after a week I witnessed lots of emotional energy and words flying about but I was unable to get to the issues. One whale watching outfit did a nice job of presenting some research one evening at a restaurant. The invitation had gone out over the cruisers net to anyone interested in the issues to come along. Many cruisers showed up, along with the business owners. Any attempt to seriously "debate" issues was silenced with a carefully worded written statement and a walk out by key players. A power play if ever I saw one.
Each Southern Hemisphere winter Humpback whales travel from the Antarctic to Tonga to breed and calve. Tonga is also one of the few places where you can snorkel with the whales for a fee. At T$250 to T$275 per person, Whale Watching can be a profitable business in Tonga.
Of course commercial Whale Watching operators must be licensed. Non-licensed operators cannot take paying customers on whale watching trips. There may be guidelines to help control the industry although no one seemed to be able to produce them. There don't appear to be any laws outside of licensing. We were told that the guidelines regarding cruising boats warn not to approach whales any closer than 300 meters. However, commercial operators we saw did not observe the 300 meter guideline. Certainly placing customers in the water to be able to swim with whales required boats to get very close. We observed the commercial operators following the whales for hours as we moved from one island to the next.
All parties profess interest in the welfare of the whales. Who would not be interested in protecting the mothers as they calve and nurse their babies. I do wonder about the conflict of interests between short term personal gratification, be it profit or adventure, and the long term welfare of the whales. Although they appear to be curious, at what point do the whales feel threatened or crowded? How does all the attention affect them? Can we trust ourselves to be the guardians of these wonderful animals or should stronger controls be imposed to protect the whales of Tonga? Perhaps the subject should be open to debate.

Underwater, So Serene

Underwater photographs by Elliot.

Tikis in the Marquesas

During our time in French Polynesia we found tikis old, new and even underwater.  Some had been moved to sites in towns and some were in their original places around historic sites.  Others were modern works.  The above is a modern piece probably from the 1980's (much more intricate than the original works).  Modern sculptors have the advantage of modern tools.

An original tiki, in situ, part of a me'ae.

Above two are modern works.

Modern works underwater, Moorea

Anchorages... San Cristobal, Galapagos. April 3, 2010

Rounding the reef as we enter our first Galapagos anchorage at San Cristobal. A promise of things to come - see our Surfin' Galapagos post.

*Part of a series of images highlighting our favourite anchorages.

Underwater, Not for My Table

We've seen some interesting reef fish for sale in the markets in Papeete. Not for us. We don't catch or eat reef fish in these parts for a couple of reasons. The risk of ciguatera poisoning is too real and how could we kill any of these beautiful jewels of the reef. We'd rather take their pictures.

Underwater photographs by Elliot.

South Pacific Economics

This morning I went to the produce markets in Neiafu, Vava'u, Kingdom of Tonga. Bought a watermelon for US$5. In the Marquesas, French Polynesia I saw watermelon for sale in the produce market for US$75. Needless to say the French Polynesians sold us no watermelon.

Having a Whale of a Time in Tonga

The Kingdom of Tonga (aka Kingdom of Lost Days). Position 18 42.715s, 174 08.370w
It was a disappointing rugby match last night, Australia lost again to New Zealand. This morning we left Neiafu Harbor in search of paradise, as if we haven't found it yet.
Our search was guided by whales, beautiful, magnificent humpback whales. It's possible to see mothers and calves here as others have in recent weeks. Today we were treated to the sight of four to six whales splashing and diving. Any plan we had to anchor in a specific location was lost as we side tracked in the general direction of tell-tale water sprays high above the water. Of course we practised responsible watching and stayed quite some distance from the whales. It would have been great to get up close for some good photographs but chasing and hanging in real close just doesn't seem fair to the whales (plus it's against accepted whale watching guidelines).
After a couple of hours we found ourselves off the Blue Lagoon. Who could pass up the opportunity to anchor overnight in a place called the Blue Lagoon. And yes, it is blue and the surrounding sandy beaches are white, the reefs are close and the whole effect is out of this world.
Lunch is cooking, nems (spring rolls), like the ones we bought for breakfast when in French Polynesia. After a snack it's time for snorkeling. The white sandy beaches and reefs are calling us.
Posted by SSB radio - no wifi in Paradise.

On the line with Elliot - Pilot Whales

On passage from the Galapagos to the Marquesas we were lucky to be accompanied by a pod of pilot whales.  They stayed close for about a half hour.