Bristol Rose

Danish Family Released by Somali Pirates

2011-09-08T07:19:00.001+10:00

Even 300 nautical miles off the coast of Somalia, private sailing vessels can be hijacked by pirates. Four US citizens were killed in February 2011 during a failed rescue attempt. A few days later, a Danish family of five with children under 16 and two crew members on the sailing boat Ing were taken hostage.

When you've shared the same anchorages with people just living the dream of sailing around the world and suddenly they become hostages or are killed by Somali pirates, the horror of piracy comes close to home. Our family has been anxiously monitoring news of the Danish family, Qvist Johansen from Ing.

Today we are celebrating news of their release after six months. Link to news.

The Gulf of Aden is a major shipping route. With the Somali pirates extending their reach 300 nautical miles from their coastline and the fact that the country has not had a functioning government since 1991, it is hard to believe that most people are completely unaware hundreds of people remain hostages in Somalia. Perhaps some of the millions that go in aid to Somalia could be used to protect the safety of private and commercial ships attempting to enter the Gulf of Aden. What do you think?

Ing

2011-08-21T07:32:00.001+10:00

When we crossed the Pacific last year we found ourselves in the company of yachts from all over the world. One of those international boats was the Danish yacht Ing.

On board Ing was a family cruising the world. Tragedy struck when they were captured by Pirates.

News this week is that they maybe released within a week. I hope so.

See link for news

Update, Crew of ING have been released after 6 months. See link for news

messing about in boats

2011-08-20T07:35:00.001+10:00

"Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. Simply messing,"

Brisbane Based Bristol Rose

2011-05-15T23:15:00.001+10:00

Brisbane River City Cats Signage

Moving back into the mainstream of life has its challenges. As well as all kinds of crazy weather in Queensland, we've been confronted with some serious culture shock. Our experiences are fairly mundane compared with everything we experienced in crossing the Pacific.

Bristol Rose in her slip at the Royal Queensland Yacht Squadron

Getting settled in Brisbane, working, enjoying the sunshine, favourite foods. Unfortunately not a lot of time to keep our blog up to date and friends have been asking if Yasi got us.

Pumpkin in the markets and roast pumpkin on the menu, yum!

A tower of lamingtons!
The stuff of cravings when we lived in the US, far away from an Aussie cake shop.

Buckets of gerberas

Rainbow Lorikeet building a nest

Attitude, contender in the Brisbane to Gladstone multihull race.

Bristol Rose is being hauled out this week to take care of annual maintenance, which is a little overdue.

Manly, Queensland

Yasi knocks on the door of Queensland

2011-01-31T18:51:00.002+10:00

As if the recent floods was not enough now mother nature is sending cyclone Yasi to visit north Queensland this week. With the state still struggling to dry out we are now looking towards more rain and damaging winds.

Australia Day on Moreton Bay

2011-01-30T03:07:00.003+10:00

Look Closely, Jack from Anthem joins in with the Aussie Day celebrations

Each Wednesday the Royal Queensland Yacht Squadron, or simply RQ, has an afternoon race. Last Wednesday was Australia Day, perfect weather attracted 79 sailboats of all shapes and sizes in the afternoon race.

Here are some of the photos taken on our sail on the bay.

Nice and close

It may be a social outing, buts it's still a race.

Aussie Day! We Love Our Lamb!

2011-01-26T08:24:00.000+10:00

On International Australia Day, celebrate with a lamb chop on the barbie.

Check out Sam's latest promotion here. Happy Australia Day to all our mates near and far.

Old Ways and Wise Building Brisbane

2011-01-22T12:31:00.007+10:00

As Bristol Rose made her way up the Brisbane river in October, the crew were shocked to see all the cool new buildings and restorations along the riverfront. Apartments where industrial sites used to sprawl, the Powerhouse now a fabulous arts space, lots of cool concrete, glass, miles of boardwalks and cycling paths, and very "new" uniquely Australian landscaping.

Brisbane was putting on a great show of modernity, class, style and fun for all to see. With loads of hard work, even more money, and typical Aussie never-say-die spirit, Brisbane will look great again.

Will the developers have to change the way they think, design and build? There's wisdom in the old ways of building in the Sunshine State. It's worth taking a seriously close look at how it used to be.

The typical old "Queenslander" was built on stilts - hmmm, no prizes for guessing why! While the old homes might get their feet (or stilts) wet, the living spaces could sit high above invading waters. The height allows cooling breezes to circulate, provides a place to park the car out of the burning sun. And who didn't have a clothesline under the house for hanging the washing on rainy days?

The "Queenslander" has wide verandahs to shade the windows and keep the rain at a distance. Some covered in their verandahs for extra living space but even left open, they're extremely practical and useful. The verandahs and "under the house" allowed space for kids and adults to get outdoors, under cover from the elements. And best of all, those grand old houses are charming and beautiful to look at. You've gotta love a Queenslander!

King Tide and Long Wait for CityCat Ferry

2011-01-21T14:40:00.002+10:00

Bayside at Manly, boats in the marinas certainly saw an increased water level but the King Tide caused no real problems here. Residents in Albion were affected by some tidal flooding.

The HeraldSun.com.au has reported on the state of the Brisbane CityCat ferry service and $100 million rebuild cost estimate. Follow the link for the news and a great picture of the Sydney Street Ferry terminal.

Over the past eight days transport by bus and train has been free to assist residents and volunteers. Free public transport stops on Monday when passengers will pay an additional 15% on top of the pre-flood fares.

Brisbane Before and After Flood

2011-01-20T14:43:00.002+10:00

NearMap, based in Perth, Western Australia, have mapped the recent Brisbane floods. Although the before images are reported to be taken January 13, it's obvious many were taken well before then. Nevermind, you get the general idea.

Here's my photo of the Moggill Ferry, service suspended, tied up to the Ipswich side on December 27.

With all the rain this summer up to Christmas Holidays, there was already flooding in the area around Mt. Crosby and Wivenhoe Dam when we toured the area with friends on Dec 27. People are asking about the operation of the dam and the ability of the existing dam to cope with all that rain.

The Brisbane River at Colleges Crossing, Dec 27, 2010

Benches and barbecues under water.
Campers hanging in there on the edges of Wivenhoe Dam on Dec 27, 2010.

As well as all the poor souls who lost loved ones, homes and businesses in floods across 5 states (Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia, and Tasmania), there are many who were less drastically affected. How do you count the number of lives disrupted, those whose employment is in doubt, how many holidays ruined?

Click on ABC News, move your mouse over the images to see the difference a day can make. When you look at the before and after aerial images, (Part 1 and Part 2) you get a glimpse of the magnitude of the devastation we have witnessed in Brisbane. Brisbanites and visitors alike will miss riding the ferries and cycling (and walking) the miles of river walkways.

Beautiful Bulimba Ferry terminal in October 2010

Most if not all of the Brisbane Ferry docks have been washed away. The Lord Mayor of Brisbane, Campbell Newman, does not expect the CityCat ferry service to be operating for at least 90 days.

One of a fleet of CityCats leave the Brisbane River for Manly, Tuesday Jan 11, 2011.

Storms Are Not Always the Same.

2011-01-15T16:39:00.041+10:00

We are in Cyclone season in Queensland and back to that age old cruiser summer hobby of weather watch. Our first cyclone, Vania, a category one with 35 knot winds, what? So I did some research. The above table shows the rating systems for different tropical storms. Here is a surprise, different countries use different ratings for storms.

In Australia Cyclone ratings are as follows.
Category 1 Cyclones - 34 to 47 knts
Catergory 2 Cyclones - 48 to 63 knts
Category 3 Cyclones - 64 to 85 knts
Catergory 4 Cyclones - 86 knts to 106 knts
Category 5 Cyclones - greater than 107 knts

This contrasts with the US rating system
Category 1 Hurricanes - 56 to 72 knts
Category 2 Hurricanes - 73 to 85 knts
Category 3 Hurricanes - 86 to 99 knts
Category 4 Hurricanes - 100 to 119 knts
Category 5 Hurricanes - greater than 120 knts

So, in summary at the low end of the scale cyclone warnings may scare us prematurely however on the high end all severe storms are best to be avoided if possible.

Rain, Flooding, Move to Manly

2011-01-11T23:15:00.002+10:00

Bristol Rose and crew are safe tonight at the Royal Queensland Yacht Squadron in Manly. We have Brisbane's City Cats for company, as well as Merlin, Alexis and Whiskers.

Getting out of our slip at Dockside Marina and over to Manly was windy, wet, bumpy and cold. At least we zoomed down the river at a brisk pace, dodging debris, and doing well.

One of the deciding factors that convinced us it was time to move was seeing all the ferries and City Cats heading down the Brisbane River, and buildings in the CBD were evacuated. When Robert measured the distance between the high water mark and the top of the pylon holding our dock, he measured 7 feet, well short of expected levels.

We're thinking about our neighbours at Dockside Marina. There were so many boats in their slips when we left today, including some liveaboards. If the levels rise as suggested, the floating docks will come right over the tops of the pylons. It's too horrifying to think about. Images over the last days and weeks have been horrifying.

Aussies have earned the reputation for being tough. Here's a quote from a woman interviewed on the news, "You gotta be strong and just keep going, that's the Australian way".

Story in the NY Times: Staying Afloat Down Under

Inland Instant Tsunami in Toowoomba

2011-01-11T12:06:00.002+10:00

Eight dead, 72 missing. Families separated, many people stranded and isolated. Gatton, Qld evacuated overnight. Flash floods, Toowoomba devastated by a wall of water. Houses washed away with people in them. One spokesperson calls the wall of water that swept through Toowoomba yesterday, "An inland instant tsunami".

Queensland government calls an all agencies briefing. Suburbs at risk today or tomorrow include: Albion, Auchenflower, Bowen Hills, Brisbane City, Bulimba, Chelmer, Coorparoo, East Brisbane, Fortitude Valley, Kangaroo Point, New Farm, South Brisbane, Windsor, Wacol. The equivalent of two Sydney Harbours are flowing into the Wivenhoe Dam.

We are holding tight to our floating dock at Dockside Marina while considering our options. The marina is protected a little by the curve of the river, with the other side experiencing fast flowing water (we estimate about 10 knots), and our lines not straining at all.

Moving out from our little eddy would present some difficulties with the flow of the water, and all the debris making its way to the sea, plus our prop is not performing well for us. We are expecting a three meter tide, which these docks could sustain. No evacuations have been called for Brisbane city and we're trying to get more information.

Noon. We are preparing to leave the dock and take our chances getting down the river, out through Moreton Bay and to the Royal Queensland Yacht Squadron marina at Manly.

Of Droughts and Flooding Rains, and Runaway Yachts in Bundaberg

2011-01-10T13:22:00.003+10:00

Brisbane River looking south from our slip at Dockside Marina, Kangaroo Point

"I love a sunburnt country,
A land of sweeping plains,
Of ragged mountain ranges,
Of droughts and flooding rains.
I love her far horions,
I love her jewel-sea,
Her beauty and her terror -
The wide brown land for me!"

Dorothea Mackellar (1885-1968), wrote the poem "Core of My Heart" at age 19, expressing her for Australia. She captured it all, the uniqueness of Australia, the feelings Aussies have for their country and the poem became known widely as "My Country". When I was at school, everyone could recite by heart, the refrain, at the very least.

The Brisbane River flooding at Colleges Crossing, 27th Dec 2010

Since we arrived in Brisbane we have experienced 28 fine days and 49 days of rain. This all follows 10 years of drought. At the peak of the drought 70% of Queensland had been in drought conditions for 6 years! Still living aboard Bristol Rose in Brisbane city, we are xperiencing exceptionally heavy rainfalls, torrential rains. Today much of southern and central QLD is in flood.

Australia is a land of contrasts and extremes.

"Core of my heart, my country!
Her pitiless blue sky,
When sick at heart, around us,
We see the cattle die -
But then the grey clouds gather,
And we can bless again
The drumming of an army,
The steady, soaking rain."

The flooding is causing problems not just for those on the land, but for yachts both local and international. In Australia we have the insane situation where the Volunteer Marine Rescue are prevented from "salvaging".

Wivenhoe Dam, 27th Dec. All five flood gates are now open.

Red tape has tied the hands of willing VMR volunteers so they must watch from their launches as runaway boats crash towards their destruction and even down the rivers and out to sea. You can read the story at Sail-World and at ABC.

When looking at news stories about the flooding, we found a story about cruising mates, Jim and Kent of Sea Level, participants in the Port 2 Port Rally from Port Vila to Bundaberg. Jim is one of Robert's surfing buddies. It looks like he's also something of a hero! Their story is at Bundaberg News Mail, 28th Oct 2010.

"An opal-hearted country,
A wilful, lavish land -
All you who have not loved her,
You will not understand -
Though earth holds many splendours,
Wherever I may die,
I know to what brown country
My homing thoughts will fly."

Rain is keeping the ducks happy.

Click here for the poem My Country (Core of My Heart).

Merry Christmas!

2010-12-23T07:00:00.005+10:00

Best Wishes for a Merry Christmas!

We'll be celebrating in Brisbane with family and thinking of all our dear friends. Happy Holidays!

Brave Miss Daisie

2010-12-22T07:34:00.001+10:00

Monday was a shocking day for Miss Daisie. She is such a love, she makes friends wherever she goes. It's hard to believe she could travel all over the world, in places where dangers abound, only to be attacked in Brisbane.

Miss Daisie's is not happy her hairdo has been messed up.

We were returning home after visiting the groomer, red bows in her hair, when we came face to face with a big dog who leapt across the path to attack her. It was so quick and shocking for us all.

Both dogs were on leads and we were able to pull Miss Daisie away to safety. We got her quickly back to the vet who took her in straight away to check her wounds. She cleaned her up and gave her an injection, as well as some anti-inflammatories and antibiotics to take away with us. The vet says she's lucky, no serious damage.

Daisie is a brave soul. Despite her shock, her tail still wags when she sees someone who wants to be friends. We're making sure she spends time with her best furry friends. She is recovering her usual happy demeanor and we are taking good care of her.

I've Been Everywhere, Man!

2010-12-12T08:03:00.003+10:00

Kangaroos at Balancing Rock, near Glenn Innes

Driving from Brisbane to Sydney recently to pick up Daisie from Quarantine brought back some fond memories. There's nothing like a drive through small Aussie East Coast towns to make you smile and think of singing. Just saying the place names out loud is a hoot!

Guyra Railway Signal, New South Wales

Take a look at some of these "blink and you'll miss it" place names we've loved most on many a drive along the Pacific Highway:

Duranbah, Tyagarah, Newybar, Yelgun, Uralla, Uki, Bilinudgel, Bellimbopinni, Tabbimobile, Jackadgery, Liangothin, Tibuster, Coopernook, Coolongolook, Nabiac, Rainbow Flat

The 10 year drought has broken. Mann River at Jackadgery.

Then there's some all time favorites from around the country: Murwillumbah, Mullumbimby, Cunnamulla, Cabramatta, Indooroopilly, Kirribilli, Woolloongabba, Oodnadatta, Nambucca, Clybucca, Buladelah, Bambaroo, Woolloomooloo.

You might remember Johnny Cash's 1996 version of the song, "I've Been Everywhere, Man". Back in 1962 Lucky Starr recorded the Aussie version, written by Geoff Mack in 1959:

I've been everywhere man,
'cross the deserts bare, man,
I've breathed the mountain air, man,
of travel I've had my share, man,
I've been ev'rywhere."

Been to...
Click here to see where intrepid traveller Peter Harris has been as he's followed the lyrics of the song.

Near Scone, NSW

Brisbane Street Art

2010-12-11T06:31:00.042+10:00

Sandstone was a common building material for the historic buildings in Australia's cities and towns.

There was nothing to tell the significance of these gorgeous, quite large carved sandstone blocks. You just have to enjoy the beauty of the stone and the work of the artist.

Wall art, reminiscent of aboriginal cave paintings

Kangaroo Point, Brisbane

2010-12-10T06:57:00.002+10:00

Boardwalk Dockside, Kangaroo Point

Dockside Marina, Story Bridge in the background

Poinciana tree roots

Classic old Queensland pub architecture, Story Bridge Hotel, Kangaroo Point

Woolworths store with Story Bridge art

Brisbane's iconic Story Bridge is represented in art and advertising all over the city.

Eating, Drinking Tea, Cycling with Hugh Jackman, Brisbane

2010-12-09T12:55:00.001+10:00

Chinese restaurants in Australia serve great, super fresh seafood - Spanner Crab

Gary's new car! Waiting for you Gary, when you get tired of NZ.

Standard fare

Ok, so Hugh was only with us in advertising, it's still great to see his face on the street!

In Brisbane we can pick up a bicycle, cruise the miles and miles of boardwalk, and drop it off wherever there's a cycle station.

October in Brisbane, Jacarandahs and roses in bloom

Miss Daisie, Out of the Slammer

2010-11-21T04:00:00.005+10:00

Sprung from Quarantine, Daisie jumps into the getaway car

Freedom, fresh air, sunshine, green grass, lose the leash and let's have a run.

Feels good.

She does not seem to have suffered any culture shock and the locals have no problem with her American accent. It's great to have Miss Daisie with us after all her adventures around the world.

Brisbane City 2010

2010-11-17T17:10:00.002+10:00

Brisbane! Who would bother visiting? That's a sentiment from the not so distant past and you might be still thinking such blasphamy. In fact, it seems many Queenslanders still cling to those out of date sentiments. It's been many years since we've spent any time in Brisbane. Robert once worked at the CSR New Farm Sugar Refinery, now a waterfront apartment conversion. Trish attended college at Kangaroo Point straight out of school, now nothing looks familiar.

Heads Up! Brisbane has grown up.

Wow, what a change! Sailing up the Brisbane River we could hardly recognize the suburbs that used to be full of examples of the classic "Queenslander", a unique Queensland styled house designed to keep inhabitants cool in the summer heat, and dry during the frequent thunderstorms. If we can still find one, we'll take a picture!

Ferries and CityCats run every 10 to 30 mintues from the remodeled old/new Ferry Wharves linking 24 stops along the river. You can pick up a bicycle and cover a few miles of riverfront boardwalk, then drop it off at your destination. That's cool.

We went to a concert in the park. Peter Frampton, America, Chicago and Brain Wilson! Neil Diamond and Leonard Cohen are in town. Just down the road at the Byron Bay BLUESFEST, Bob Dylan, B.B. King, Elvis Costello and the Blind Boys of Alabama are playing. Hang on didn't we just leave the US?

We are struggling to get used to the cost of living in Australia. Beer at $3.00, business shirts $100, meals $25 a plate, cell phones and internet costs - we are still in denial on this one, quaratine on arrival $330, meat from $26/kg. Bargains may be found with some careful hunting around. With the Aussie dollar around parity with the US dollar, we might have to make a trip back to top up the work wardrobe.

Sale!

All in all, Brisbane is still a great place to live. It's good to be back among "our tribe".

A Big Mistake Coming In

2010-11-09T09:41:00.001+10:00

Owen hoists our oversized courtesy flag and yellow quarantine flag.

Amidst the realization that we actually did it, crossed the Pacific in a sailboat, was a terrible sinking feeling we'd made a big mistake.

In fact it was more than a feeling, we DID make an unbelievable mistake. We came to the wrong place!

So sure of our ability to arrive in a country with documents and our confident selves ready to face Customs and Quarantine officials, we failed to question the information published in the three Cruising Guides we were using.

Note to any cruiser planning to check in at Scarborough, or Manly in Queensland; don't try it. The official check-in office is now Rivergate, on the Brisbane River. There is no other check-in location for a Brisbane landfall.

Queensland's Glasshouse Mountains with Bribie Island foreground

Talk about embarrassing! That was the least of it. We still wonder if our VHF radio is "on the blink", i.e. only working intermittently. We could hear officials on Channel 16 but not one person responded to our numerous calls for instructions as we approached Scarborough, knowing our arrival would be in the dark. A big change from everywhere else in the world is that the radio is quite silent here, perhaps due to the fact that many Australian boats don't use VHF as they still require operators to be licensed! Most cruisers come in further north, to Bundaberg or Mackay, so there were no boats like us to talk with.

With the threat of a major storm with lightning and damaging winds forecast for Moreton Bay, we congratulated ourselves on getting to Scarborough in the dark, before the storm. The volunteer with the Coast Guard was visible in his "ivory tower" so we radioed but he was unable to give us any information and no, we could not tie up at the fisheries dock because we were not authorized (thanks for the welcome). Someone in a slip yelled that customs had moved to Manly and they could make a phone call for us.

Storms at sea

The wind was picking up, the storm was closing in. Robert circled Bristol Rose in the tight quarters available to us. We could not wait there, circling, with the fear that the wind would soon force us into the slipped boats and rock retaining walls. So we headed back out through the narrow winding channel hoping to get some protection somewhere. Manly seemed too far.

A radio call came from the volunteer Coast Guard, "Captain, what are your intentions?". Hmmm, so the Coast Guard DOES care about where we are and wants to keep an eye on us? Followed was what seemed like a scripted conversation on the CG's side, suggesting that "You're the Captain so it is up to you, but you could come back in and tie up at the public dock until the storm passes". By this time it was about 9:00PM. Ok, we'll do that, sounds like the best offer we've had tonight.

At last we were tied up, no help offered, awaiting the storm and feeling a little shell-shocked after our welcome and the past 8 days at sea. We feel like we have the plague. Knock, knock, thump, thump, three armed Officers of the Australian Customs and Border Protection Service are standing on the dock beside us. Welcome aboard!

After being read the riot act about illegal entry into this fine country of ours, and being questioned about why we came to Scarborough, they decided not to press charges. They proceeded to then process our customs and immigration clearance on the spot, while the rain poured down and the lightning and thunder welcomed us to Australia. Not exactly what we would have planned. We finally got to sleep around midnight.

The mouth of the Brisbane River. Beyond is Moreton Bay.

Turns out that only two weeks before our arrival, another vessel arrived at Scarborough, also seeking shelter from a storm. It was an Australian vessel which had reportedly been involved in importing large quantities of drugs. At least they did not make the mistake of thinking they would be able to do customs, immigration and quarantine clearance at Scarborough. Their surprise reception was of a different calibre. Obviously the locals were a little nervous about unfamiliar boats entering there, hence the reluctance to speak to or help us. You can bet more than one phone call was made to authorities about our arrival that night.

On a very positive note, we have to dispel some of the bad news out there in the cruising community. Yes the officials are very serious about their role as protectors of Australia's borders. God help anyone who comes in with ill-intent. The approach is equivalent to what we experienced in Puerto Rico with the US Coast Guard and what we encounter entering the US. No messing around. There's nothing to fear when arriving with nothing to hide. The officials, once they established we'd made a silly (very embarrassing) mistake about port of entry, were extremely courteous and helpful and did indeed welcome us with sunny smiles. We slept, comforted with the thought that our protection was assured.

Anchorages... Coconut Point Fiji

2010-11-04T11:51:00.002+10:00

Coconut Point,
south coast of Vanua Levu, Fiji

*Part of a series of images highlighting our favourite anchorages.

She's In The Jailhouse Now

2010-11-01T12:52:00.001+10:00

Miss Daisie is at the Eastern Creek Quarantine Facility awaiting her release on November 20, 2010. You can bet there will be some excitement.

Anchorages... San Blas, Panama. January 2010

2010-10-27T21:00:00.003+10:00

This anchorage was worth the 5 hour wait until sunrise. Navigating the approaches to anchorages in the low lying San Blas islands with unreliable charts and coral reefs demands good light. Coco Bandero was our first San Blas anchorage after our 1,000 mile passage across the Caribbean Sea.

*Part of a series of images highlighting our favourite anchorages.

Brisbane, QLD

2010-10-26T12:57:00.001+10:00

We are docked at Dockside Marina , in the heart of the city of Brisbane. Queensland, beautiful one day, perfect the next - so the Tourism ads used to go!

Starting the process of settling back into Australian life. It was an interesting passage from Vanuatu. The weather had something for everyone, from mill pond conditions to gale force and back again. Still, we made it in 8 days, safe and sound.

Checking in is a story in itself, for another time, but all went well in the end and we have to report that the officials were far more human than the reputation that preceeds them (among the cruising community).

Close to Home

2010-10-23T06:33:00.001+10:00

It's 4.30am Saturday and we're only about 145 miles from Brisbane, ETA Sunday afternoon.
I'm finishing my watch and thinking, close to home, just one more night on passage. Two years of cruising coming to a close. Feeling excited, tired, and maybe on the verge of getting emotional. Better get some sleep now.

Nasty Conditions, A Positive Note.

2010-10-22T07:15:00.002+10:00

Jimmy Cornell describes the passage from Vanuatu to Brisbane as either slow or rough. We must be lucky, we got both.
Closely following weather forecasts for weeks, it looks like this week will be a good week to sail to Australia. The past week of heavy seas and strong winds is behind us. The forecasts look good, so we'll head off with a group of boats participating in the Port 2 Port Rally to Bundaberg. The Rally has no official start date but expects participants to arrive in Bundaberg during the last week of October. We'll continue on to check-in in Brisbane.
Bristol Rose set sail from Port Vila Saturday morning and for that first day we made good time, sailing at six knots. Conditions were ideal, we felt good about our decision to leave when we did. We're in regular radio contact with the others, Onda, Zenitude and The Road.
By midnight the forecast light air forced us to use the motor. And the motor continued to push us slowly onward for the next three days through a heat haze and mill pond waters, sails empty of air. Elliot caught a big Wahoo, almost five feet long.
The wind was predicted to pick up to 15 knots after we cleared the Grand Passage north of New Caledonia. By 1600 hrs of day 4 we were sailing nicely and by 2200 hrs we had 27 knt winds and needed to reef sails. During the next 36 hrs the winds picked up to 30 knots, 40 knots at times, with very rough 4 meter seas. Waves crashed into the cockpit as the wind roared and the waves belted us on the beam, a potentially dangerous situation. For three days waves have rolled over the decks of a heavily reefed Bristol Rose. She is literally covered in salt crystals but despite a level of discomfort for the crew, she has performed exceptionally well.
While facing this awful weather we are all somewhat dismayed that the forcasts we're getting don't jibe with our reality. That's ocean sailing, you can never be sure of what you'll get.
Today, Thursday, as we near latitude 22 south and longitude 156 east, with about 350 miles to go to Brisbane, the winds have dropped to 15 kts and the seas are starting to abate. Now the Coral Sea weather forecasts are predicting rough conditions in the areas we are now leaving behind us. At last we can think about preparing a real meal and look forward to the prospect of some restful sleep. We'd love to finish this, the final passage on our path home, on a positive note. The GRIB files and forecasters are predicting the path in front of us to be much better, fingers crossed.
On a really exciting, positive note, we've just received an email advising us that Miss Daisie has arrived in Sydney today. She will spend the next 30 days in quarantine. While we have been cruising the Pacific, Miss Daisie has run the gantlet of airline and cargo, Australian Customs and Immigration, USDA and Veterinary rules and regulations required to leave the US and enter Australia. The process exceeded our wildest expectations of effort involved but she has made it, many thanks to our friends in California and Maryland.
We expect to arrive in Brisbane on Sunday night. Fingers firmly crossed.

Anchorages... Chapera, Las Perlas, Panama. February 2010

2010-10-20T21:49:00.004+10:00

Bristol Rose, perched in a tree at Chapera.

*Part of a series of images highlighting our favourite anchorages.

Vanuatu to Brisbane, What's This Stuff?

2010-10-17T13:59:00.001+10:00

Position 18 06.933S 166 07.554E
Day 2 of our passage from Vanuatu to Brisbane.
Wind dropped last night around midnight. We have been motoring since. Weather forecast is for light winds for the next 36 hours. The sun is shining, we have moon light at night, full moon is Saturday, and calm seas. The winds are forecast to pick up in a couple of days.
We are traveling with Onda, The Road, Zenitude and Meander. We are checking in with the Port 2 Port Rally net on 8161 mhz at 0615 and 1815 EST. The Rally boats are going to Bundaberg but we will peel off and make landfall in Brisbane.
Today's highlight - discolored water as far as the eye can see. We are not sure what we are seeing. We are sailing northeast of New Caledonia, 120 miles away from the nearest land, in 4000 meters of water. Could the very small floating/suspended particles be coral bloom, discharge from a ship's tanks, evidence of an underwater volcano? If you have any ideas, let us know. We have no clue.
send via SSB Radio

Mt. Yasur Volcano

2010-10-16T06:18:00.001+10:00

A John Frum village at the foot of the Mt. Yasur volcano

Visiting the small island of Tanna in Vanuatu was for us, one of the most amazing experiences of the past 2 years of cruising. We anchored in Port Resolution (named after Captain Cook's ship). When he visited he was not permitted to go up to the volcano. We took a sunset tour in the back of a truck - that's how everyone gets around.

Bislama is the national language but perfect English is also spoken by many in the villages. Village life looks much the same as it always has, with no hint of the modern day except for an occasional red "digicel top up" sign.

Climbing the rim

Where there's smoke...

there's an explosion

Sunset on the rim, making the climb to the top of the crater

Vanuatu Update, Wifi Frustration

2010-10-14T13:00:00.003+10:00

So what's new? We're loving Vanuatu but hating paying over $2 per MB for wifi, and still not able to upload photos! All that aside.......

Please try to imagine this beautiful country, active volcanos, crystal clear water, the beautiful smiles on the faces of people in the street.

We'll be on our way on Saturday, weather permitting. Looks like we might have a reasonable weather window to get to Australia.

Anchorages... Chapera, Las Perlas, Panama. February 2010

2010-10-13T21:00:00.005+10:00

Chapera is one of the islands where TV series, Survivor Panama, was filmed. The anchorage is between Chapera and Mogo Mogo. We survived this beautiful anchorage just fine.

*Part of a series of images highlighting our favourite anchorages.

Anchorages... Isla del Rey, Las Perlas, Panama. February 2010

2010-10-06T21:00:00.005+10:00

We spent a week in Las Perlas in February and were taken with the beauty of all of the islands in the group. The image is of another "moody" black sand beach on the eastern side of Isla del Rey.

*Part of a series of images highlighting our favourite anchorages.

Tail With A Sting

2010-10-04T18:01:00.001+10:00

Convergence Zone Squall

Squalls are the scariest of sailing experiences. For the most part they are relatively harmless but, then there is always that nasty one with unpredictable winds.

Anchorages... Isla del Rey, Las Perlas, Panama. February 2010

2010-09-29T21:00:00.005+10:00

Black sand beaches. I'm getting scratchy just thinking of all the bugs at this anchorage. Even though we all wanted to leave well before sunrise, it makes our favourite list because it was so beautiful and we were the only boat there - hmmm, there's a surprise.

*Part of a series of images highlighting our favourite anchorages.

Fly Bird Fly

2010-09-27T17:22:00.005+10:00

Free

On a dark and stormy night, off the coast of Tahiti, this Tropic Bird crashed into our cockpit. We thought it must be injured, however the bird stayed with us until sunrise and then flew off.

Postcards from Musket Cove, Fiji

2010-09-27T09:03:00.003+10:00

Cool stuff to see at low tide

The tide is low

Anchorage

Water toys at sunset

Torn sail

Sunset over anchorage

Anchorage and Marina

Musket Cove Yacht Club

Sunset

Beach Bar

Clowning About

2010-09-27T08:30:00.001+10:00

Good Advice From Fiji

2010-09-27T08:19:00.002+10:00

Elliot found some mixed messages at the school in Savusavu.

Daisie is Getting Ready to Fly to Australia

2010-09-24T12:52:00.000+10:00

Daisie is getting ready to fly from the States to Australia in a couple of week's time. Donna and Dawn have trained her well; being in the crate means she get treats.

After a few more visits with the vet, she'll be ready for the big journey, 14 hours flying time from LA to Sydney.

Greetings from Fiji

2010-09-23T13:00:00.002+10:00

Musket Cove

Bristol Rose and crew are still in Fiji and will leave next week for Vanuatu. We have made a departure from our usual cruising method of exploring to the max and have spent most of our time in Fiji, just relaxing in Musket Cove. Who knows what we are going to do with all this Kava purchased in anticipation of the Fiji islands' custom of sevu sevu. The folks at Musket Cove don't seem to be the Kava types.

Owen and Elliot have been night diving, swimming, sailing and generally having a good time. Lots of photos taken but the slow connection does not allow image uploads!

Good news with Miss Daisie, she has received approval to enter Australia and will have 30 days quarantine in Sydney before she is released to us. Yes, it does feel something like a jail sentence.

Our Pacific Crossing is fast coming to an end. We are all looking forward to being reunited with family, Daisie, seeing friends and rediscovering our Aussie home after so many years away.

Anchorages... Taboga, Panama. March 20, 2010

2010-09-22T21:00:00.004+10:00

On the weekends, Panamanians flock by ferry to the islands. We enjoyed Taboga, about 5 miles from Panama City, so much we sailed there twice while waiting for parts from the States. That's Bristol Rose in the center of the picture.

*Part of a series of images highlighting our favourite anchorages.

A Dog in the Garden

2010-09-21T01:00:00.003+10:00

Soft Coral

Coral garden

Dogface puffer fish

Photographs by Elliot.

Grey Days in Paradise

2010-09-20T17:04:00.006+10:00

Turquoise, Blue and Grey

Grey Day

Another Grey Day

This sequence of photos was taken while passing through Raiatea on route to Bora Bora. Nasty storm clouds all around as we sailed through the pass. However nothing developed, we had a good passage.

Anchorages... San Cristobal, Galapagos. April 4., 2010

2010-09-15T21:00:00.003+10:00

The beach is popular with the locals. You might even get to swim with a sea lion.

*Part of a series of images highlighting our favourite anchorages.

Pacific Passage Making

2010-09-15T16:55:00.002+10:00

Bristol Rose from Inspiration Lady

Photo taken by Jackie King aboard Inspiration Lady en route (18 days) Galapagos to the Marquesas. This is one of our favourite photos of Bristol Rose, thanks Jackie

Coral Gardens in Tonga

2010-09-14T01:00:00.002+10:00

Coral Gardens off anchorage #16, Vaka'eitu, Vava'u, Tonga.

Photographs by Robert using Olympus Stylus Tough 8000.

Spring is Here in Fiji

2010-09-13T05:57:00.002+10:00

It's spring in the southern hemisphere! The first day of September is the first day of spring in Australia - memories of warm sunny days and cooling breezes in Sydney. We're celebrating with a picture of a daffodil taken at our home in Maryland.

Spring in the tropics here in Fiji (and generally in the Tropics) enters with a whisper. We're really going to miss all those northern hemisphere plants and the dramatic changes with each season. The English might be known for their cottage gardens but the Americans know how to put on a real spring show with pots overflowing with a riot of colors, flowering trees aglow, and gardens bursting out with spring bulbs.

30,000. That's the number of hits on the Bristol Rose blog. Thanks for dropping in.

Miss Daisie

2010-09-12T05:56:00.000+10:00

Daisie is doing some window shopping on Rodeo Drive, Hollywood.

It's Sunday! For all Daisie's friends who've been wondering where she is, we're happy to report that she is one big step closer to us and her home in Australia.

Huge thanks to Donna, Rick, Daniel and Leah for all their love and care of Daisie in Maryland.

She is now sharing the love with Dawn, Mike, Nora, Ian, and furry friends in California. Last seen, she was cruisin' Rodeo Drive, on the look out for Richard Gere. She really identifies with Julia in Pretty Woman.

Miss Daisie is a lucky girl!

Anchorages... Taahuku Bay, Hiva Oa, Marquesas. May 2010.

2010-09-08T21:00:00.005+10:00

Not everyone's idea of anchoring in an island paradise but you have to check in somewhre with immigration. The anchorage is small, shallow, crowded and you would not want to swim in the water.

It's a 3 kilometer walk into the pleasant town of Atuona, Paul Gauguin's final resting place.

*Part of a series of images highlighting our favourite anchorages.

Blacktip Sharks in Moorea

2010-09-07T01:00:00.021+10:00

In Moorea when stingrays are fed in the shallows, sharks and their accompanying remoras (suckerfish) come up from the deep.

Underwater photographs by Elliot.

French Polynesian Sky

2010-09-06T16:46:00.002+10:00

Storm over Tuamotus

This picture was taken by John Southwood aboard Dignity. Bristol Rose sailed into this storm and experienced winds to 48knts.

Time and Trench Just Two Features of Tonga

2010-09-06T04:52:00.001+10:00

Day 4, Sat, Sept. 4, 2010
Tonga is a special place, like no other. Tonga might be one of the poorest countries in the Pacific, but Tonga has captured time. "Where time begins", "where time stands still", whatever. Tonga is the first country to welcome in the new day each dawn. Despite the fact that Tonga is geographically in the western hemisphere (east of longitude 180 degrees), the country was successful in lobbying to have the International Dateline moved so Tonga would coincide with the same day as Fiji, hence Tonga has the unique time of UTC plus 13 hours. Confused? More on this some other time.
Tonga is a Kingdom, a country of beautiful islands, a sanctuary for whales, a place where the friendly and charming locals, men and women, wear woven "mats" around their middles as a mark of respect for their royalty. The churches are grand, the singing sublime and the restaurants excellent. You might think you've seen blowholes. The coastline of the largest island Tongatapu, breathes like a herd of dragons as blowholes blast forth their awesome watery mist.
I don't know where you'd find the greatest ocean depth but the Tonga Trench seems ridiculously deep. At its deepest it's more than 10,000 meters; about twice as deep as the Rocky Mountains are high. If you dropped a stone overboard I wonder how long it would take to touch bottom? If whales frolic in the shallows around the islands, what kind of beasties live at those crazy depths in the Tongan Trench?
If you're a cruiser and you've dreamed of finding your own uninhabited tropical island with no other boat to clutter your anchorage, the Ha'apai Group of Tonga is the place to realize your dream. In fact you could probably pick up your own island there for a cool US$6 million, as advertised for Kelefesia. Even if you're tempted, you might want to ask how a purchase can work in a country where the land is owned by the nobles and leased to the commoners. You'd want a long lease for that kind of money but then you couldn't be described as a regular commoner if you're in that league.
For all its magnificence, there is a downside to this paradise if you like your water to taste like, nothing, I suppose. Tongan water has a taste and a colour (brown) and it does not work well in the morning coffee. For only the second time in our two years of cruising we had to buy bottled water to drink. The other time was in the Galapagos. By the way, local Tongan coffee called Tupu'anga, meaning grow from your roots, is very good!
Surely the good people of Tonga deserve better drinking water, to start the day off right.

On the Road Again... to Fiji

2010-09-03T12:08:00.001+10:00

Day 3, Friday, Sept 3rd, 2010. Tonga to Fiji
Today is slow going but at least the sun is shining and the temperature is a little warmer. We left Nuku'alofa on Wednesday around 2.30pm and had cold, cold rain for the next 12 hours. Had to bring out the foul weather gear, first time since the USA in Nov/Dec 2008. Winter has just officially ended in the Southern Hemisphere.
We bid a sad farewell to Tonga before setting out on our 420nm passage to Fiji. We spent longer in Tonga than we had planned, because we enjoyed the country so much. Owen and Elliot did their PADI diving certification while there and even got to swim with a whale and her calf.
Tonga is one of those forks in the road for cruisers crossing the Pacific. Many will head south to New Zealand for the summer, others head further west to Australia. We bid farewell to Anthem, Dignity, Inspiration Lady, Jackster, Albatross III, Lilith, MaaMalni and so many others. We do hope to see them all in Australia next year.
We continue to make new friends, that's what cruising is about, hellos and goodbyes and sharing experiences in between with some amazing people. Like John on Sea Angel who we met in Niue, headed for his home in New Zealand. We hope to see him and Maria and the crew again. Whiskers, Fine Gold, InnforaPenny II, Salacia, Toroa III, Joule, Zenitude and Delacado are all headed for Australia so we might catch up with them in Fiji.
Will we see those Bubbles Boys in Fiji? Not sure but we hope so. The Bubbles crew has made cruising the Pacific more than a laugh and a half - oh, to be young and carefree.

Anchorages... Fatu Hiva, Marquesas. May 6, 2010

2010-09-01T21:00:00.003+10:00

As an introduction to the Marquesas, Fatu Hiva exceeds any expectation of paradise found after long weeks at sea.

*Part of a series of images highlighting our favourite anchorages.

Stingrays... Soft and Cuddly?

2010-08-31T13:00:00.004+10:00

In Moorea, Society Islands of French Polynesia, we got up close and cuddly with stingrays. These rays are used to being hand fed. Surprisingly, their skin feels like velvet.

These are the first underwater shots Elliot took with his new camera, Canon G11 with underwater housing.

Surfin' Tonga

2010-08-28T19:00:00.010+10:00

Crown of Thorns Starfish

2010-08-27T19:00:00.001+10:00

Underwater photograph by Elliot.

Tonga, Islands in Paradise

2010-08-26T16:55:00.003+10:00

New Zealand has sheep but Tonga wins the prize for the most pigs. We love the pigs, so cute!

S/V Asolare ghosts past us on our first morning in Tongan waters.

Reef walking on Nuku island, Vava'u

Beach walking Kapa Island, Vava"u

Euaiki Island, Vavu'u. A short stop before our overnight to the Ha'apai Group.

Three islands in the Ha'apai Group. The volcanic, cone shaped island, Kao, is where the mutiny on the Bounty occurred.

Perfect waves, no crowd in sight.

Kelefesia Island. Ashore is a fishing camp, occasionally used, plus healthy resident pigs and their piglets.

Kelefesia Island, Ha'apai Group

Tungua Island, Ha'apai Group.

Elliot

Owen

Beachcombers

Coconut grove, home of many pigs

Gerbera Daisy flowering in the Tongan winter sun

What was the name of that rugby team?

Tongan fan made of plant fiber and pearl shell

Polynesian double hull sailing canoe

Friday night races Neiafu harbour, Vava'u

Kelefesia Island, Ha'apai Group

Bristol Rose at anchor in Ha'apai Group, Tonga

Anchorages... Fakarava, Tuamotus, June 3, 2010

2010-08-25T21:00:00.003+10:00

The north anchorage of Fakarava is off the main town, giving cruisers access to fresh baguettes and internet if you sit outside the post office.

*Part of a series of images highlighting our favourite anchorages.

Underwater, Creatures from the deep

2010-08-24T03:45:00.007+10:00

Crown of thorns star fish

Tongan Update from Ha'api

2010-08-19T13:41:00.001+10:00

Current Position
19 56.484S
174 42.877W
We are currently cruising the Ha'api group of islands of the Kingdom of Tonga. We expect to be in the Capital of Tonga, Nuku'alofa, by the weekend.
Tonga is special, a crazy cruising destination, awesome anchorages, stunning scenery, spectacular snorkeling, wonderful whales, remarkable reefs, smoking surf, vicious volcanos, yes vicious! Almost forgot, and friendly folks.
Each cruising area or island group is very different, Va'vau is very pretty, deep water anchorages are only miles apart and very popular with fellow cruisers, divers, and charters. Ha'api is like sailing the Tuamotus. You need to be good at navigating coral reefs and coral studded anchorages. Islands are further apart and you most often have the anchorage to yourself. In fact most days we don't see another cruising boat. We've seen more whales than cruisers in these parts.
Today we are staying put, off Ha'afeva Island, as a slow moving front is passing by, bringing the most rain we have seen for some time. Visibility is reduced drastically. Another boat has come to join us, Two Oceans. We expect the rain to clear by tomorrow and we will move further south.
Cameras have been very busy both above and below the water. Look out for the Tonga pictorial very soon, when we have wifi and are not reliant only on SSB updates.
Posted by SSB radio through "winlink".

Anchorages... Anaho, Nuka Hiva, Marquesas. May 22, 2010

2010-08-18T21:01:00.004+10:00

We hiked from Anaho Bay over the ridge to Hatiheu where we explored the archaeological sites.

A highlight of Anaho for us was our snorkel with manta rays, gentle giants. We have fond memories also of the great beach party we organized for the whole anchorage.

*Part of a series of images highlighting our favourite anchorages.

Paradise. Some things don't change

2010-08-17T14:43:00.001+10:00

You'll find no trouble here - unless you brought it with you. Some people like to pack trouble with their toothbrush for an Island get away.
Vava'u group of Islands, Kingdom of Tonga are the model pacific islands for an escape. In the delightful port city of Neiafu many transplanted westerners have set up businesses along the waterfront. You don't need to be in Vava'u too long before you sense the tension between various groups on the island. Mainly because they like to air their disagreements over the air (channel 26 for the morning cruisers net and contact).
At the center of the tension is conflict between those who make their business in "Whale Watching", those who like to take their own boats to watch the whales, and those who simply want to ensure the welfare of the whales in Tongan waters. Interestingly enough, as the various groups squabble, I did not sense that any of the Tongan people had a "dog in the fight". Rumblings seem to be limited to the expat community.
So what is it all about? Frankly after a week I witnessed lots of emotional energy and words flying about but I was unable to get to the issues. One whale watching outfit did a nice job of presenting some research one evening at a restaurant. The invitation had gone out over the cruisers net to anyone interested in the issues to come along. Many cruisers showed up, along with the business owners. Any attempt to seriously "debate" issues was silenced with a carefully worded written statement and a walk out by key players. A power play if ever I saw one.
Each Southern Hemisphere winter Humpback whales travel from the Antarctic to Tonga to breed and calve. Tonga is also one of the few places where you can snorkel with the whales for a fee. At T$250 to T$275 per person, Whale Watching can be a profitable business in Tonga.
Of course commercial Whale Watching operators must be licensed. Non-licensed operators cannot take paying customers on whale watching trips. There may be guidelines to help control the industry although no one seemed to be able to produce them. There don't appear to be any laws outside of licensing. We were told that the guidelines regarding cruising boats warn not to approach whales any closer than 300 meters. However, commercial operators we saw did not observe the 300 meter guideline. Certainly placing customers in the water to be able to swim with whales required boats to get very close. We observed the commercial operators following the whales for hours as we moved from one island to the next.
All parties profess interest in the welfare of the whales. Who would not be interested in protecting the mothers as they calve and nurse their babies. I do wonder about the conflict of interests between short term personal gratification, be it profit or adventure, and the long term welfare of the whales. Although they appear to be curious, at what point do the whales feel threatened or crowded? How does all the attention affect them? Can we trust ourselves to be the guardians of these wonderful animals or should stronger controls be imposed to protect the whales of Tonga? Perhaps the subject should be open to debate.

Underwater, So Serene

2010-08-16T19:00:00.001+10:00

Underwater photographs by Elliot.

Tikis in the Marquesas

2010-08-13T16:43:00.003+10:00

During our time in French Polynesia we found tikis old, new and even underwater. Some had been moved to sites in towns and some were in their original places around historic sites. Others were modern works. The above is a modern piece probably from the 1980's (much more intricate than the original works). Modern sculptors have the advantage of modern tools.

An original tiki, in situ, part of a me'ae.

Above two are modern works.

Modern works underwater, Moorea

Anchorages... San Cristobal, Galapagos. April 3, 2010

2010-08-12T08:00:00.001+10:00

Rounding the reef as we enter our first Galapagos anchorage at San Cristobal. A promise of things to come - see our Surfin' Galapagos post.

*Part of a series of images highlighting our favourite anchorages.

Underwater, Not for My Table

2010-08-09T19:00:00.005+10:00

We've seen some interesting reef fish for sale in the markets in Papeete. Not for us. We don't catch or eat reef fish in these parts for a couple of reasons. The risk of ciguatera poisoning is too real and how could we kill any of these beautiful jewels of the reef. We'd rather take their pictures.

Underwater photographs by Elliot.

South Pacific Economics

2010-08-08T10:32:00.004+10:00

This morning I went to the produce markets in Neiafu, Vava'u, Kingdom of Tonga. Bought a watermelon for US$5. In the Marquesas, French Polynesia I saw watermelon for sale in the produce market for US$75. Needless to say the French Polynesians sold us no watermelon.

Having a Whale of a Time in Tonga

2010-08-08T10:32:00.003+10:00

The Kingdom of Tonga (aka Kingdom of Lost Days). Position 18 42.715s, 174 08.370w
It was a disappointing rugby match last night, Australia lost again to New Zealand. This morning we left Neiafu Harbor in search of paradise, as if we haven't found it yet.
Our search was guided by whales, beautiful, magnificent humpback whales. It's possible to see mothers and calves here as others have in recent weeks. Today we were treated to the sight of four to six whales splashing and diving. Any plan we had to anchor in a specific location was lost as we side tracked in the general direction of tell-tale water sprays high above the water. Of course we practised responsible watching and stayed quite some distance from the whales. It would have been great to get up close for some good photographs but chasing and hanging in real close just doesn't seem fair to the whales (plus it's against accepted whale watching guidelines).
After a couple of hours we found ourselves off the Blue Lagoon. Who could pass up the opportunity to anchor overnight in a place called the Blue Lagoon. And yes, it is blue and the surrounding sandy beaches are white, the reefs are close and the whole effect is out of this world.
Lunch is cooking, nems (spring rolls), like the ones we bought for breakfast when in French Polynesia. After a snack it's time for snorkeling. The white sandy beaches and reefs are calling us.
Posted by SSB radio - no wifi in Paradise.

On the line with Elliot - Pilot Whales

2010-08-06T05:39:00.001+10:00

On passage from the Galapagos to the Marquesas we were lucky to be accompanied by a pod of pilot whales. They stayed close for about a half hour.

Keeping an Eye Out for Anna

2010-08-05T14:18:00.003+10:00

Day 3, 0400 UTC. Niue to Tonga, Position 18 33.371s;, 173 34.339w
On Saturday night when we were enjoying a jolly good time at the Niue Yacht Club, an un-Godly storm blew through from the east.
The local constabulary came by and we heard that an EPIRB had been activated so he was calling out an Orion from New Zealand to search for a yacht in distress between Niue and Tonga. The much awaited supply ship was diverted to join in the search. After a while we braved the elements to get back in our dinghy to return to Bristol Rose. It was an uncomfortable night but we were confident that the excellent moorings maintained by the Niue Yacht Club would hold.
On Monday morning the 2 crew members of Anna arrived on the supply ship with only the clothes they were wearing. Their 57ft catamaran had flipped over when the wind suddenly blew up from 18 knots to over 60. It only took an instant. One crew member ended up in the water and managed to get into the dinghy. The other acted on his first instinct to get to the EPIRB quickly to activate it. He remained inside the upturned catamaran until they were rescued, about 18 hours later.
We were at the Yacht Club when they came ashore. They were full of praise for their rescuers and spoke about how well the crew looked after them. They were very lucky sailors. Anna's position when they were rescued was 19 degrees 32.305s, 172 degrees 14.60w.
Since we left Niue on Monday we've been on the look out for the upturned cat. It won't be easy to see in daylight and impossible to see at night. The last thing we want to do is hit it. Trying to calculate it's position as it drifts is difficult. The owner expects it to slowly drift in a northerly direction and is hoping to salvage the vessel.
We have the Kingdom of Tonga in our sights and are about 20 miles from our waypoint on the east coast of Vava'u. Bristol Rose is just drifting along comfortably at 3.3 knots speed over ground with spinnaker flying and 7 knots of wind out of the east (a far cry from the conditions of Saturday night). We will take the spinnaker down when night falls and may then have to motor the remaining miles. We'll arrive in darkness but should be able to navigate to safe anchorage.

Are We Ahead or Behind?

2010-08-05T14:18:00.002+10:00

Day 3, Niue to Tonga, August 4, 2010
Position at 1837UTC 18 46.791S, 172 49.791W
I've been thinking. I've been wasting a lot of time just thinking about time.
If we gained a day when we crossed the International Date Line on our move to the US from Australia, then technically now that we are making our return journey across the Pacific, we're not losing or even misplacing a day. We're just returning what we had borrowed 14 years ago!
When we arrive in Tonga in a couple of days the time of day will be the same, but the date will jump ahead one day to the next. It doesn't seem fair.
So what then of the journeys to and fro through the years? Each time we flew west to Australia, we lost a day, then returning east to the US we gained another. Nice! That still makes us even.
On the occasion that we purchased around the world tickets we flew west to Sydney and lost a day (or gave back the one we had originally borrowed). We returned to the USA in a westerly direction via Bangkok and Paris, neither of which are anywhere near the International Date Line, longitude 180 degrees. So that still makes us even.
Wait.... when we arrived in the USA on the around the world tickets the time in the US was about 14 hours behind Sydney time, so we still gained. So are we ahead or behind or just even? I can't waste any more time thinking about this.
I want to ask the King what he is doing with all those lost days that arrive on his doorstep, and can we borrow a couple to go on with.
Posted at sea by SSB radio.

Pirates Invade Bora Bora Banana Race on Bastille Day

2010-08-05T05:00:00.002+10:00

French, Bora Bora and French Polynesian flags Bastille Day, July 14, 2010

We celebrated Bastille Day on Bora Bora. The yachties disguised as pirates participated in the parade.

The athletes line up for the start of the Banana Race. Those wooden poles with bunches of bananas and coconuts at each end are heavy.

The crowd gathers to cheer on the participants.

On your marks.....

Go!

What's this, a late entrant in the race?

The winner

The pirates put in a solid performance, challenging the second place runner.

Good'on'ya Joe!

Is that a pirate trying to get in on the offical race photographs?

Everyone in the islands has a relaxed attitude to participation.

Even the Chief of Police wants his picture taken with the pirates.

Thanks to Alex and the crew of Bubbles for added fun wherever they go.

Anchorages... Fakarava, Tuamotus. June 1, 20

2010-08-04T21:05:00.000+10:00

In the lagoon of a Tuamotus atoll you might be anchored in a small patche of sand under perhaps 40 feet of water, surrounded by coral heads. Wind shifts can have your anchor chain tangled and it takes some smart manoeuvring or a dive to get free.

*Part of a series of images highlighting our favourite anchorages.

The Kingdom of Lost Days

2010-08-04T12:11:00.001+10:00

Day 2, Niue to Tonga, August 3, 2010
Position at 02.07 UTC 18 54.333S 171 35.436W
How many countless days have been carelessly lost? Will the lost days ever be recovered? And if found, who will come to claim them?
These questions weigh heavy on our minds as we make our way from the magical island state of Niue to the Kingdom of Lost Days, Tonga. Who knew that a passage across the South Pacific could present such puzzles.
I'd like to think that we won't really, entirely lose a day on arrival in the Kingdom of Tonga. I'd rather think we might only be guilty of misplacing it, reserving the right to pick it back up again some time in the future.

Tahiti Looks Nice!

2010-08-03T08:09:00.000+10:00

June 13, 2010 Still playing catch-up on blog posts long waiting for reliable wifi connection...

If you’re as old as I am, you might remember the catch phrase from a TV advertisement in Australia about 30+ years ago for ... I don’t remember what, Palmolive soap or something... a wealthy woman is reclining in the tub aboard her private jet while perusing a travel brochure. “Tahiti looks nice”, she says understatedly to her manservant, and the jet immediately changes course for Tahiti.

French Polynesia, in particular, Tahiti et ses Iles, maintains the reputation; exotic and expensive travel destination. The black pearls are exquisite, the snorkeling in the atoll lagoons incredible, the people beautiful and friendly, the coconut palms plentiful, the baguettes warm and crusty. It’s true, whether on the US dime or Aussie dough, everything but the baguettes looks horribly overpriced.

Moorea from the anchorage in Papeete

Swimming with the stingrays and sharks in Moorea. Photo credit Elliot.

So here we are in Paradise where the world finally catches up with us. As with every major port en route, we sailed in with a hefty list of “gotta do’s” before we can safely head out again. Nothing too drastic mind you, just maintenance and keeping BR in good condition.

Our top priorities this time are to resolve our computer problems, i.e. get the navigation and communication computer repaired or replaced, attend to some wear and tear on sails (they’re really in pretty good condition) and organize Daisie’s travel to Australia. Then there’s some serious 21st birthday shopping with Elliot. Also laundry and re-provisioning of food, water and fuel to be done. The fun never stops.

Wait, hold everything, I think I’ll go shopping in Papeete. I need something new to wear with my stunning Tuamotu pearl. I wonder, is there anything wrong with a complete wardrobe of pareos, long and short, in assorted colors and designs? Like “she” said, “Tahiti looks nice”.

Miss Bora Bora and dancer

Fast forward four weeks and we can’t believe we’ve hung about Papeete for so long. It’s been worth it to get everything in order. (And I love my new Polynesian wardrobe). We were even able to put in an order with our good mate Jack of Anthem, who slipped back to the States for a week. Jack generously added to his excess baggage to help us out with a headsail furler and Elliot’s birthday present.

A couple of likely-looking lads

What is it with the French.. and English! Food package info in four different (& obscure?) languages but no English!

I think I reported in another post that the nav/communications computer replacement will have to wait until we are in an English speaking area of the world. Using a mouse instead of the mousepad helps bypass some of the problems. We might have to put Dell on our wall of shame, along with Honda, Walker Bay, cheap safety equipment and Yamaha... but that can wait for another day when we’re really feeling the need for some self-indulgent, wallowing down in Complaintsville. No room for complaints when surrounded by such natural beauty as in Tahiti and her islands. We got to celebrate Bastille Day in Bora Bora and to see the gorgeous Polynesian dance competition for Heiva.

Farewell friends on Anthem, Inspiration Lady and Jackster. We'll see you in a year or so when you get to Australia.

One last look at those fabulous Heiva dancers

Underwater, Mysterious

2010-08-02T19:00:00.004+10:00

Can you guess what this is? I can't!

Underwater photographs by Elliot.

Unique Niue

2010-08-02T14:00:00.000+10:00

If you have the chance to visit the island of Niue, just do it! There's nowhere else quite like Niue and there can't possibly be more friendly, happy and fun loving people on the planet.

Limu Pools snorkeling

Talava Arches

Matapa Chasm

Green algae on large coral chunks at Matapa Chasm

Canoes stored in the cave at Uluvehi

Niue cliffs are dotted with hundreds of caves

So many caves to explore

Togo Chasm

So many abandoned homes. All gone to New Zealand or Australia

There is no cemetery on Niue. Graves are prominent in front of homes and along the roadside.

Chickens roam free. There's a future here for you Blake.

Owen swims through a cave at Limu Pools

Snakes Alive! We Have Arrived

2010-07-30T09:52:00.001+10:00

Day 10 Maupiti to Niue, Thursday, July 29, 2010
Position at Noon Niue time (UTC -11hrs), 19 03.082s, 169 55.304w
We've just picked up a mooring at Alofi Anchorage in Niue, one of the world's smallest self-governing states (in free association with New Zealand).
We're looking forward to exploring this most unusual island. We've been doing our research and reading the World ARC notes. About 20,000 Niueans now live in New Zealand and only about 1500 live on the island itself. Niue is a raised atoll, formed of limestone. As we rounded the island on our route to the anchorage on the western side, we noticed hundreds of caves.
We can expect to see a rainforest on the island, and explore some of the caves and chasms. If we are lucky we might see some whales.
Oh, and Niue is known to have lots of sea snakes. But that's not the only reason for the corny blog title today. Robert and I take great delight in thinking up the corniest blog titles (most never see the light of day), just to embarrass our children.

Winds of change

2010-07-29T10:57:00.001+10:00

Day 9 Maupiti to Niue, Wednesday, July 28, 2010
Position at Noon Niue time (UTC -11hrs), 18 53.377s, 167 46.143w
At long last the winds are starting to pick up. The sea state is getting messier (technical term for not so much fun). We are 120nm out of Niue and will make landfall tomorrow. This passage will go down as one of our longest not in terms of miles but days at sea.
The temptation to make a short stop at Beveridge Reef is not great enough. We are looking forward to ending these days en route and making landfall in Niue.

Anchorages... Nuka Hiva, Marquesas, May 25, 2010

2010-07-28T21:00:00.004+10:00

Hakatea (Daniels Bay) is the most protected from the swell entering Taioa Bay and is a favourite among cruisers. Through the fairly narrow entrance the bay opens up to the right into a circular basin with a sandy beach. We celebrated Elliot's 21st birthday with a crab feast on the beach. Yes, Elliot and Owen hunted down the land crabs behind the beach at sunset and we cooked them straight away over the fire.

From the anchorage of Hakatea you can take the dinghy or walk around to the bay of Hakaui where you can hike to Vaipo, the third highest waterfall in the world (free-fall cascade over 900 feet). The hike starts as a pleasant walk down a hibiscus lined path, through citrus and banana groves and gradually becomes more strenuous. Everyone says it's well worth the effort to swim in the pool at the bottom.

Taioa Bay is a magical, eerie kind of paradise, as this picture suggests.

*Part of a series of images highlighting our favourite anchorages.

Laundry Library, Tales from the South Seas

2010-07-28T06:58:00.001+10:00

Day 8 Maupiti to Niue, Tuesday, July 27, 2010
Position at 9AM Niue time (UTC -11hrs), 18 13.781s, 165 21.615w
A well stocked library, essential equipment on a blue water sailing boat. Due to space constraints, books come as go as their relevance or usefulness changes and sometimes we just hate to let a favorite book go. That's why we started our "Laundry Library" page of the blog but recently we've had little opportunity to update the page.
At anchor we are kept very busy with maintaining Bristol Rose, catching up on admin tasks that just go along with life in general, communications, socializing with other cruisers and enjoying the location. Reading is not an activity we have much time for. However on a long passage that all changes.
On this passage the crew have read 7 books so far! Plus consulting a library of reference books, Jimmy Cornell's "World Cruising Routes" (long standing essential reading for ocean crossings), "The Pacific Crossing Guide" by Michael Pocock, "Landfalls of Paradise" by Earl Hinz and Jim Howard, "Moon Handbooks South Pacific" by David Stanley and "Ken's Comprehensive Cruising Guide for the Kingdom of Tonga" by Ken Hellewell. We also have quite a lot of reference material filed on the computer.
The reference books are essential as we dream and plan our landfall. We like to be prepared to make the most of each new location. As it must have been back in the times of the early explorers on voyages of discovery, sailing the South Pacific is an exotic and richly rewarding experience. Now that we are here we realize how little we really know about the islands and the people, literally on the doorstep of Australia.
To feed the appetite for reading material we frequently swap books with other cruisers. Usually a laundry or marina bar is a good place to swap. We try to make sure we have a fresh supply of books to keep us entertained on a long passage.
We picked up a copy of Mitchener's "Caribbean" from a fellow cruiser when we were in Las Perlas and found the signature of Christian Alair, of S/V Christa, inside the cover. Prior to departing from Maryland in November 2008 we followed Christa's Blog and dreamt of cruising the waters of the Caribbean. When we visited Grenada we finally got to meet Christian. After following his blog for over a year we felt like we already knew him. Getting to read a book that he too had read on his journey was a special experience for us. Like a message in a bottle, his signature said "Christa was here".
Lately we've been leaving our mark by way of the BR boat seal inside books we particularly like. It's fun to make the connections and think of the journeys the books themselves make as they hitch rides across oceans.
Posted by Single Sideband Radio

Brisotl Rose keeps on Rollin. Rollin, Rollin, Rollin, on an Ocean

2010-07-27T06:24:00.001+10:00

Day 7 Maupiti to Niue, Monday, July 26, 2010
Position at 10AM Tahiti time, 18 32.690s, 163 39.912w
For most of this passage wind speeds have been less than 15 knots. We're sailing directly downwind in light air out of the NNE. Progress is slow and Bristol Rose rolls from side to side with each wave. How slow? On our passage from The Galapagos to Marquesas we traveled the same distance, 700 miles, in only 4 days. If nothing else, we are having a relaxing time of it and getting small projects and lots of reading and writing done.
The days have been sunny but cooler and night watches in the cockpit get quite cold. We've been enjoying beautiful moonlit seas to sail by, as if someone has left the nightlight on. It's a full moon tonight.
Last night we sailed past Palmerston, a popular stopover for many crossing this part of the Pacific. We are anxious to get to Niue so we continue to slog on.

Underwater, Blue Eyes, Funny Face

2010-07-26T19:00:00.007+10:00

All underwater photographs by Elliot.

A Day of Rest

2010-07-26T14:48:00.001+10:00

Day 6 Maupiti to Niue, Sunday, July 25, 2010
Position 18 27.740S 162 37.313W

Neptune has taken the day off and turned the wind machine off.
We have had a very slow, slow, slow day. Sun is shining, seas are calm, so can't complain.
Hope to see some small increase in wind speed soon to help us get moving along our way to Niue.

Are we there yet?

2010-07-25T11:59:00.001+10:00

Day 5 Maupiti to Niue, Saturday, July 24, 2010
Position 18 13.559S 160 29.388W
At noon today we past the 500nm mark, only another 500nm to go to Niue.
Whenever I come up through the companionway after rest, I'm still surprised to see the big swells looming behind the boat. What are we doing out here? Out in the Pacific that is thousands of feet deep, hundreds of miles from land and as confirmed by the net check-ins - about 70 miles from the closest cruising vessel. Is anyone else out here? We keep looking but only see occasional birds and flying fish. I go back to my book. Elliot is designing his new boat card in Photoshop.
Some fellow cruisers on this route have anchored off Palmerston Reef for a rest and perhaps some whale sightings. It's about 150 miles away and about half way between Tahiti and Tonga. Some cruisers intend to anchor off Beveridge Reef for some snorkeling, about 120 miles south east of Niue. If we reach Beveridge Reef during daylight we might be tempted to stop there briefly.
Last night we had a brilliant starlit night with an almost full moon. This type of night has been elusive since we arrived in the South Pacific. Mostly the sky is covered with clouds and storms are more common then we desire. We were treated to a beautiful sunrise however, the wind is dropping and clocking around to the NE. Not so good for our passage making. Owen is enjoying the sunshine and playing a game on his itouch in the cockpit. Robert is calculating, updating the log, and ignoring the inevitable "are we there yet?". Not nearly!

Blue Water Everywhere

2010-07-24T16:40:00.001+10:00

Maupiti to Niue. Day 4, Position 17 41.488S 158 40.518W
What's there to like about doing a 1,000 nm passage?
It takes about 3 days for your body and mind to stop fighting the inevitable truth of making a 1,000 nm passage. It is not comfortable, boring most of the time, terrifying some of the time, broken sleep, wishing it will end soon. But the passage takes its own sweet time.
Bristol Rose does her best to get us through safely; she works tirelessly day and night, negotiating wind and waves to get us to Niue. We spend our time reading, eating, watching a vacant sea, some times chatting, some times nothing.
The morning and evening nets are a highlight, someone outside the family to talk to! Daily weather reports to download via SSB, update our blog posting and position reports, and email. We're getting more blog updates done at sea than when at anchor when wifi often, and SSB too will fail us. Volcanic island heights sometimes block the SSB.
Now into our 4th day at sea, we have traveled 400nm at an average speed of 5.3kts, we have not changed the sail settings, our Monitor windvane has steered all the way. We've done running repairs: a chaffed line replaced, reattached a main sheet shackle to the boom, reattached a chaffed reefing line, cooked and cleaned. Outside of keeping a visual watch and making adjustments to the monitor from time to time we have little else to do. We catch sleep where we can and count down the miles and days to landfall in Niue.

World ARC Fleet in Australia

2010-07-23T06:22:00.001+10:00

French Polynesia to Niue, Day 3. Position 17 08s, 155 38w
Today is overcast with a bit of blue poking through. We did experience winds over 25 knots last night as the cold front passed over us on it's way east.
We're thinking about our friends in the World ARC fleet. They are arriving in Mackay this week and we're disappointed not to be with them. Cruisers make friends fast and make fast friends! Will we ever see them again? We truly hope so.
When we can get a wifi connection we check their locations and daily logs. Some of the crews have jumped off in order to spend more time in the Pacific. They might catch the WARC on the next round, 2012-2013.
Being a part of the World ARC has been a good experience for us. Much thanks to Paul Tetlow and the World ARC team who have continued to support us along the way as we've trailed the fleet. The World ARC introduction has smoothed our entry procedures and slip/mooring arrangements all the way.
Leaving French Polynesia is a big turning point for us and another fleet, the loosely affiliated cruising fleet made up of Puddle Jumpers and others, generally known as cruising yachties. There are so many choices, various routes across the Pacific. It's been a blast to have covered so many miles with our friends in this fleet (some for over 18 months, since the Bahamas). We hope to see them again in Australia over the next 12 months or so as they make their way across the Pacific.

Our schedule now is to reach Australia in September. We are making the most of the fabulous locations along the way, leaving some time in Queensland to see family and enjoy the Great Barrier Reef before making our way south to Sydney before cyclone season in November.

Net Gains... or, Give a Little, Take a Little

2010-07-22T12:10:00.001+10:00

French Polynesia to Niue, Day 2. Position 16 45S, 154 03W
Weather forecasting in the South Pacific is a challenge. We obtain Weather from a number of sources and get opinions from other cruisers. Everyone has an opinion on the weather around these parts and given how variable it is you stand a good chance of being right some of the time.
The weather charts show a cold front coming our way. We have been on the lookout for it all day after a report this morning that an ominous cloud bank is building to our West. Yesterday and today we have had light winds from the ENE and relatively flat seas. It would be nice to have a little more wind so that we can sail a little faster, but let's hope not too much wind.
There are a number of boats in our area, some heading north to Suwarrow, some to the Southern Cooks and Tonga. It's comforting to know through the morning net that we are not out here alone and it could be helpful to hear what conditions others are experiencing. Since the Marquesas, we've been checking in with the Polynesian Breakfast Net on 8164 SSB. 7:30AM on 8164 started with Whiskers wanting to keep in touch with us as well as Emily Grace and word got around to the point where a net evolved. Steve on Dignity organized everyone into a helpful and widespread net. In response perhaps to the difficulty in getting reliable weather information and in particular the unreliability of the grib files, Jack on Whoosh took on the job of Principal Weather Guesser. He's since recruited another three or four Guessers who collect information from various sources including Nadi Weather Map, Fiji Fleet Codes, NOAA, New Zealander Bob McDavitt's weekly newsletter, French Polynesian Weather and GRIB files. It turns out that the models used for the GRIB files have difficulty predicting the wind in the South Pacific so a prediction of light winds is not always reliable.
Organized nets rely on controllers to facilitate. Trish has been helping once a week with the Polynesian net. Our experience has been that if you put yourself out for the greater good, you give a little and you typically get a lot more back from the organized nets. When boats check in to the net they are not just reporting their position, which could be useful if they should find themselves in difficulty later on. They're also providing on the spot wind and sea conditions that could help others in their wake. Cruisers also share information about anchorages, services, etc. on the net. We all gain from being involved.

Anchorages... Tahuata, Marquesas. May 13, 2010

2010-07-21T21:00:00.003+10:00

Tahu means fire, ata means spirit. The island is known for its tatoo artists, stone and wood carvers, and friendly people.

Crystal clear waters of the anchorage at Resolution Bay, Vaitahu. Captain Cook landed here and named the bay after his ship, Resolution.

*Part of a series of images highlighting our favourite anchorages.

Farewell French Polynesia... Two Tuna To Go!

2010-07-21T16:01:00.003+10:00

At noon today we made our way from one of the most delightful anchorages in French Polynesia, through the amazingly blue lagoon, along the well-marked channel and out the "infamous" pass to the open sea. We could easily have spent a lot more time in Maupiti. They say the small island is what Bora Bora was before it was "discovered", unspoilt. We enjoyed our time in Bora Bora and all the islands we visited in French Polynesia but Maupiti will probably always be a little special to us. So many people pass it by on their way to the Cook Islands or Tonga. Some people tried to talk us out of going through the pass because it's narrow and impassable when the wind is from the south or southwest. We're glad we made the stop at Maupiti, just 27 miles west of Bora Bora.
From here it's farewell to many of our friends and the beautiful islands of French Polynesia and on to Niue, about 1,000 miles from Maupiti. From here the cruising fleet spilts multiple ways as cruisers head for the final destination for this cruising season, New Zealand or Australia where they'll wait out the cyclone season. We met Gary and Jackie of Inspiration Lady and Jack of Anthem by radio in the Dominican Republic and Turks and Caicos over a year ago. They're heading to New Zealand along with Jacqui and Dave of Jackster so it will be at least another year before we see them again. We met Gerald and Di (and Beatrice) on Whiskers, in Marsh Harbour, Bahamas almost 18 months ago and will be trying to catch up with them at points along the way to Australia in the next few weeks.
Just to start us off on the right "foot", or is that keel, Elliot landed two beautiful yellowfin tunas simultaneously this afternoon. That was exciting. Plenty of fish to go on our way.

Underwater, Unbelievably Blue Tuamotus

2010-07-19T19:00:00.008+10:00

Can you believe that some bright sparks thought the Tuamotus Archipelago was a good place to do nuclear testing???

Underwater photographs by Elliot.

Anchorages... Ua Pou, Marquesas. May 16, 2010

2010-07-14T21:00:00.003+10:00

Hakahetau Bay, (hock-ah-hay-tao) with a backdrop of seven vertical spires, "powerful giants that reign over the landscape", according to Joe Russell author, "Exploring the Marquesas Islands". Arguably the most striking anchorage in the world.

The tallest spire, Oave, is over 3,900 feet and was shrouded in cloud for the time we were there.

*Part of a series of images highlighting our favourite anchorages.

Underwater, Pink Turbans and Pipe Fish

2010-07-13T07:00:00.010+10:00

Turban shell

Pipe Fish

It's hard to believe the colors and careful camouflage of life underwater. All underwater photographs by Elliot. He really has an eye for the small pipe fish so thanks to him, I get to see what I missed while snorkeling.

Underwater, Big Fish, Cool Colours

2010-07-05T19:00:00.004+10:00

Giant Clam, the animal can be purple, red, blue, green, whatever.

Big fish, about 3 feet long.

The Galapagos Islands, Ecuador, March 2010

2010-07-01T22:00:00.003+10:00

Reclining Sea Line

The Galapagos, where the birds walk on water. The tiny Elliot's Storm Petrel was our intro to the islands.

Arriving in the Galapagos was a relief. That’s probably an understatement; it was tremendously exciting. As we approached San Cristobal, we saw a small waterfall tumbling into the sea, lava coastlines, sea turtles, a shark, birds walking on water and sea lions.

Inspiration Lady, San Cristobal

The population of the Galapagos islands is over 30,000. In 2008, 180,000 tourists, including Ecuadorian residents, visited the islands. I can’t tell you the sea lion count except to say they appear everywhere. You might even find one on your stern or peering inside your hatch, as Jacqui and David did on Jackster.

Anthem and Jackster, San Cristobal

Sally Lightfoot crab.

Jack, Anthem, enjoys his ice cream. Thanks to Jackie and Gary, Inspiration Lady, (first across the line) we all enjoyed ice cream.

Owen, Elliot and Robert rented bicycles to explore the beaches.

We took a bus up to the El Junco national park. To get to the top of the crater you take a steep walkway. Then you can look down into the fresh water crater lake. Frigate birds come to the lake to wash salt off their wings. The mountain is shrouded in clouds so the vegetation is lush and the air is dripping wet.

Elliot and Owen inside a moss and fern lined “Hobbit Hole” at El Junco, San Cristobal. Exposed tree roots help to form the walls and roof. The earth was washed away when the lake overflowed and formed a river down the side of the mountain.

We visited the Cerro Colorado visitor center on San Cristobal where they have a captive tortise breeding program.

From tiny babies to giants

We also visited the Charles Darwin Research Center on Santa Cruz, home of Lonesome George, the last of his particular species of tortise.

Luxury Galapagos cruiser, M/S The Alta ran aground in Puerto Ayora,

Galapagos on March 17, 2010.

We didn’t expect to be able to do a lot of provisioning in the Galapagos but we found the small super mercados to be quite well stocked. The farmers’ market in San Cristobal was an unexpected bonus. We found watermelon, oranges, papaya, bananas, canteloupe, peppers, cucumber, potatoes, onions, mandarins, tomatoes, coriander, passionfruit, pumpkin, beans, and tamarillos and got change back out of $20.

Kicker Rock, from our lunch time anchorage on a snorkel trip.

Look out for Elliot's underwater postings from locations along the way.

For the story of the grounding of The Alta,

http://www.pura-aventura.com/news/galapagos-boat-accident-alta

Anchorages... Fakarava, Tuamotus, June 8, 2010

2010-06-30T21:00:00.008+10:00

Anthem anchored inside the south pass at Fakarava Atoll, Tuamotus

June 2010

Over the past eighteen months we've anchored in some pretty amazing places and met some pretty amazing people, including single-handed sailor, Jack, aboard Anthem (Cabo Rico 38).

We "flew" with Jack through the pass on an outgoing tide just minutes after we dropped the hook and I took this shot.

I should explain... the south pass of Fakarava Atoll teams with sharks (mostly friendly) and the most incredible array of exotic fish. As the tide rushes in and out through the narrow passes into the lagoons of the coral atolls in the Tuamotus, divers and snorkelers drift through with a sense of flying over the coral. It's truly out of this world.

Each week when we can wrangle a wifi connection we'll post an anchorage shot from the past. Hope you'll enjoy revisiting some of the most amazing anchorages with us.

*Part of a series of images highlighting our favourite anchorages.